suggestions on buying kodak 1015IS

[arijit]

i have been operating on kodak 1093IS at present. though the camera is really good and to me, better than its canon counterpart, i want to switch over to a camera having more manual options, big sensor size and raw file format.
money constraint is a big issue. from my study of market, i have come down to kodak z1015IS for it is cheap with nice sounding features i.e. manual controls and RAW
i am not very confident in judging the tech specs, so please guide me with it.
also i would like to know the advantages of big sensor size(apart from ability to click in low light conditions!!!)
looking forward to your pro responses:)

heres the link to its specs:
http://store.kodak.com/store/ekconsus/en_US/pd/productID.145101200

[KrishnenduKes]

Discussion Approved

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

everyone has a limited budget..but it differs from person to person..you can tell what your budget is..

from my side the FUJI F70EXR.compact yet a great camera.

anvancy

[srikeerthi]

^ +1

I'm a fan of Fuji compacts that have the Super CCD EXR sensors.

[arijit]

14-15K
too low :(:(
how much does the fuji you suggested cost??? the kodak one is available for 14.5k!!!
never heard much about fuji...what are its + over others???

[Xavier]

also i would like to know the advantages of big sensor size(apart from ability to click in low light conditions!!!)
looking forward to your pro responses:)


Better noise control, better control over DoF and better per pixel resolving capabilities.

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

14-15K
too low :(:(
how much does the fuji you suggested cost??? the kodak one is available for 14.5k!!!
never heard much about fuji...what are its + over others???

13.5 to 14 according to naptol website.you bringing from US then story is different.
i suggest that you check out with your fuji dealer in ur city.

check here for your Shimla Fuji Dealers.
http://www.fujifilm.in/HIMACHAL.html

the major plus here is its EXR cum Super CCD sensor.
the next are ofcourse Fuji Colors.
third 10x zoom in a compact and yet it performs well.
if applied and controlled properly,High ISO shots are a beauty through this.
10x that fits in ur pocket.
the minus that i find is that there is no RAW as that you want.

anvancy

[arijit]

@xavier
@anvancy
thanx for the guidance :):):)
one more question...kodak has 28-450 lens while fuji has 27-350 lens...does it make much difference???

and if you can send me 2-3 raw files on my ID(er.arijitdutta@gmail.com) so i can get more clear of what i require and the benefits of the raw!

[Xavier]

@xavier
@anvancy
thanx for the guidance :):):)
one more question...kodak has 28-450 lens while fuji has 27-350 lens...does it make much difference???


100 mm at the tele end should not make a lot of difference unless you really need it. Most P&S at the long end don't exactly have spectacular performance anyway.

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

@anvancy
thanx for the guidance :):):)
one more question...kodak has 28-450 lens while fuji has 27-350 lens...does it make much difference???

and if you can send me 2-3 raw files on my ID(er.arijitdutta@gmail.com) so i can get more clear of what i require and the benefits of the raw!

regarding RAW you have more headroom since the data is captured from the sensor and not processed through the engine.JPGs are.so now you have more room regarding exposure,white balance,recovery pattern etc.

for the F70EXR you get a 10x pocket power along with dynamic range power which other P&S at your price bracket cant match.

anvancy

[arijit]

@xavier
@anvancy
thanx again...i would surely keep all this in mind before going for one...may be this jan...so if anyother suggestions left...please inform:):):)

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

can u stretch your budget more??cause from 20 onwards oly is also a good option.

anvancy

[arijit]

only if i hit a lottery ;-) lolz

would second hand camera would be good option???

[KrishnenduKes]

only if i hit a lottery ;-) lolz

would second hand camera would be good option???

Most 2nd hand stuff would be at least 2 years old! That would be outdated. But price wise it should be a steal. If I were to sell my SONY for example, I would give it away for a few thousand probably! Maybe around 4K or so...

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

ill not prefer P&S secondhand.

but if a SONY R1 is going secondhand ill prefer that..actually one is still there in a store near me..the dealer quoted a price of around 17k.and it was nicely maintained one.so 17 then seems appropriate.

the other disadvantage that i found out with the F70 EXR is that you cant attach filters like UV or polarizer etc that you may want to..in that case then a canon s3is or s5is will do.frankly speaking dont go above s5..even if digic 4 is there its not making a HUGE difference considering the price bracket.

ofcourse if you like the kodak you are talking about,buy it..they also have some great colors.but regarding noise,currently F70,F200 and LX3 and sony WX1 are in the upmarket regarding low light.

anvancy

[Deltaone]

Er if you can stretch to the 18k range, that is in range of used dslrs isnt it? Don't 400D and the ilk go for around that range there? And i dont know if it is still available, but the D40 used to be available for that price in Mumbai. No idea if it is still available. It is an old model, and only 6 MP at that, but gives you a whole lot more flexibility and options.

[arijit]

@ every1
never thought about second hand dslr seriously but hearing this stuff from you i suppose it can be considered(if decent configuration available!).
what sony model are you taking about ken?

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

@ every1
never thought about second hand dslr seriously but hearing this stuff from you i suppose it can be considered(if decent configuration available!).
what sony model are you taking about ken?

the serious concern in secondhand stuff is the quality.if you know someone personally and know that he has maintained the camera beautifully then its a different story.but seldom this happens.people hide any defects which may be costly in future.

also your budget then increases considering the lens also.frankly speaking taking a d40 now is not the best option.i know its a great cam but no motor is a serious concern.taking lenses that have motor then costs a bomb.

anvancy

[arijit]

hmmmmm...i think i shud stick to first hand p&s only...if you get time, just check the specifications of the kodak one(link above) and tell me how would it go.
the main attraction i find is large sensor size, manual controls and RAW over the fuji

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

hmmmmm...i think i shud stick to first hand p&s only...if you get time, just check the specifications of the kodak one(link above) and tell me how would it go.
the main attraction i find is large sensor size, manual controls and RAW over the fuji

large??they are almost in the same range..only points difference.the advantage that you will have of EXR over normal is the ability to capture more data in terms of dynamic range than the current offerings.if i were you i would have definitely looked at this.like i m saying,if u can extend the budget,go for the oly and likes...if u are tight,ask your fuji dealer about this cam before going for the kodak.

sensor size is only one aspect.processor,the layout of the photosites and algorithms play equal role when a photo is clicked.

anvancy

[hitanshu]

I disagree on the "lenses with motor costing a bomb". Its completely untrue.

What is a fact is that older lenses without motors/IS go for a song. However, *most* new lenses you buy (consumer ones) typically have motors. Nothing you should loose sleep over.

judge the value of the nikon flash system (uber cool) over and above the cheaper canons (canon has lovely bundles at very little additional cost)

edit: see the thread i started on canon vs nikon. it covers the usual gamut of lenses. and almost all have inbuilt motors!

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

I disagree on the "lenses with motor costing a bomb". Its completely untrue.

What is a fact is that older lenses without motors/IS go for a song. However, *most* new lenses you buy (consumer ones) typically have motors. Nothing you should loose sleep over.

judge the value of the nikon flash system (uber cool) over and above the cheaper canons (canon has lovely bundles at very little additional cost)

edit: see the thread i started on canon vs nikon. it covers the usual gamut of lenses. and almost all have inbuilt motors!

the main dilemma is that he is *stuck* with a pre decided budget of 15k.

anvancy

[hitanshu]

... then why not buy a used D40+kit lens. That should handle the bulk of his requirements. And he can BBS lenses when required from friends!

Our man already uses the kodak well - time to move up imo!

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

... then why not buy a used D40+kit lens. That should handle the bulk of his requirements. And he can BBS lenses when required from friends!

Our man already uses the kodak well - time to move up imo!

the question is he should get a *good* second hand camera like the D40.there are lots of people who fool people.

anvancy

[Deltaone]

Ok, first of all, the 18k price i quoted was for a "new" D40. No warranty or anything, but new. And it comes with a kit lens anyways. That said, getting a good used camera is admittedly slightly more difficult in india than it is over here, mainly because i haven't really seen much in the way of used cam shops over there.

That said, there are plenty of resources still left. jjmehta's site does have a very good used equipment section. Although with the predisposition of the market, there are more canon's to be found.

Moreover, checking a used DSLR isn't exactly rocket science either. Yes, there are things you can cover up that would not show up on a new things. Then again, that is a risk you take with buying used anyways, which is why used is cheaper :P.

That said, the lens thing. Yes, AFS lenses are more expensive than their non AFS counterparts, mainly because the non-AFS lenses are from the older generation. However, the standard kit 18-55 is an exceptional lens (as i keep saying... ) and the 55-200 is a very cheap secondary lens as well. Both AFS. These two will keep most people going for a good while.

Now, you could argue the 50 1.8 is non-AFS and that the 1.4G which is AFS is expensive. Yes, quite true, but if you want the 50 for the kind of photos it can take, you're not looking at P&S in the first place.

Ultimately, here's the thing. A DSLR will not cover the same focal length range as a bridge for anywhere near the same money. But then again, it is the person who has to make the choice. Would you rather have more focal length range for less money, or the ability to do a hell of a lot more with a lesser focal length range. The question is up to you.

Oh, and do keep in mind, dslrs will still hold value. Assuming you intend to move up in photography, the dslr is the next step anyways. And a bridge will not really last you for very long. You will outgrow it soon enough :D.

[Xavier]

^Totally agree. If you manage to find a D40 for anything < 20k, go for it.

[arijit]

thanx for all the guidance...already feeling to have learnt a lot !!!

[arijit]

a friend told me that a used nikon d40 is for sale. he says that the camera has been rarely used and well kept as the seller is his known. being a total noob, i need guidance on how to check the camera that if it is worth considering. and what should be its fair offer price?

[hitanshu]

Fair offer price = JJMehta / BPC forums mandwaali :p

Check with Bibu/Sid Khullar type (once) active Nikonians with their inputs on the model

how to evaluate(for a nikon, from a nikonian):
http://www.nikonians.org/forums/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=149&topic_id=151481&mesg_id=151481&page=
C/Ped from Google:
We have several posts about used DSLRs - particularly with the ongoing replacement cycle and price drop on older models. Here is a start of a checklist to evaluate a new DSLR - used or new. Many of these issues are normal wear and tear - but some can involve expensive repairs.

Please add any additional suggestions or tips.


Check for signs of being dropped - deep scrapes or dents in the plastic body. The camera is durable, but why ask for trouble?

Check the rubber on the bottom and the grip for any sign that it is coming loose. While relatively uncommon, it is a nuisance to repair.

Be sure the pop up flash operates properly and does not have any unusual play. The pop up flash latch can fail and the hinges of the pop-up flash can be damaged.

Be sure the battery door closes tightly and stays closed. Battery doors can have a tendency to pop open or can be cracked at the hinge. This is a common problem and can be repaired yourself with parts from Nikon.

Examine the lens mount for any signs of damage. Mount a lens and remove it. Make sure it easily locks into place and does not have any abnormal movement.

Insert a CF card and make sure the camera functions properly. Look for bent or damaged pins or binding when inserting the card. Make sure the CF door opens and closes properly.

Take a test shot of a plain background. Look for streaking (damage due to improper sensor cleaning), hot pixels (usually can be mapped out relatively easily), and dust on the sensor (normal and easy to remove unless it is stuck on the sensor).

Use an EXIF viewer to check the image count. Look in EXIF and camera comment (in the menu) for indications of previous ownership.

Test each button or knob on the exterior of the camera. Make sure selection knobs actually work. Problems are rare - just easy to check.

Make sure rubber covers and attachements are included. Make sure the rubber viewfinder cover is attached and in good condition. On the D200 and older look for the cover to the 10 pin connector. Check flapping covers (covering transfer port and 10 pin) to make sure they are not damaged.

Examine the 10 pin connector to make sure no pins are bent or broken. If possible, test the 10 pin connector with a remote cable.

Check and test the transfer port - look for damage.

Batteries - be sure you have the Nikon battery with the Nikon hologram. Generic batteries have mixed reliability. Nikon replacements are available.

Test the LCD screens on the back of the camera and on top of the camera. Make sure you can scroll through all functions and there are no defects in the LCD.

Check the threads on the tripod mounting screw with a plate or a tripod. Make sure the threads are not damaged by cross-threading.

Make sure paperwork is available and matches the camera. Check serial numbers and model numbers. Paperwork is not always available, but avoids the risk of buying stolen or lost merchandise. It also may identify gray market merchandise (a problem since Nikon USA will not service gray market gear; authorized service centers that are not Nikon owned are available in many major cities).

Eric Bowles
Nikonians Team

and how'd I get it?
http://www.google.co.in/search?q=how+to+evaluate+a+used+dSLR :p

[arijit]

thanks hitanshu...