Everything Macro.

[Aryan]

We have quite a number of people who love macro photography, some who already click macro photographs, others might want to dive into it but are skeptical, probably because of the supposed 'hard learning curve' involved in it.

Let us keep this thread for discussing everything related to macro. This encompasses the following:

1. Equipment used.
2. Settings.
3. Macro accessories available/ used by the members.
4. Any tips & tricks regarding photomacrography.

I have been using the Canon 100mm USM f2.8 macro lens with the EOS 400D body for taking macro photographs. Since I like to shoot "live" subjects that are quite skittish, I have mostly to do without tripod although people like 'anvancy' do "live shooting" with the help of a tripod even which in itself is pretty commendable.

When we get down to 1:1 (real macro) work or even more (provided one uses extension tubes, bellows, etc. or perhaps the MP-E 65mm Canon 1x - 5x macro lens), the DoF (Depth of Field) REALLY gets narrow. As a result of which, macro photographers generally use anything between f11 - f22, some going even beyond that although at those aperture settings (say, for example anything about f22 or so) diffraction can spoil the quality of the image.

I personally shoot anywhere between f11 and f16, as a result of which I generally keep the ISO settings between ISO 400 and ISO 1600! This is the reason a macro photographer should always use flash. The camera flash is sufficient but there comes a point when it is just not able to cope up with the kind of requirement that macro photography demands.

External flashes could come in real handy during these times. There are flashes dedicated solely for macro photography; prime examples being the Canon MT-14EX and 24EX (for Canon systems). There are also ring-flashes available for this purpose.

I would like other people who are interested in macro photography to kindly share any and every kind of information they can, with all of us, here.

@anvancy: Some tips from you would really be good at this point of time. It would really help people like me who are totally dedicated to macro photography and NOTHING else!

@all: Kindly share any tips & tricks that you have about macro photography. Also, let us all share our queries and provide solutions to each other, in context with macro photography. :)

Thanks,
-Aryan

[KrishnenduKes]

Great Initiative Aryan.

Thanks.

Well written precise text. Hoping to see some good pictures related to the topic.

[Aryan]

Great Initiative Aryan.

Thanks.

Well written precise text. Hoping to see some good pictures related to the topic.
Yes, I'll be posting some macro photograhs; would love to share more information about macro as and when I keep gaining knowledge.. :)

[Aryan]

Okay, now let us see the difference between "close up photography" and "real macro" work. Manufacturers by and large use the term "macro" on their lenses which they use on the digital cameras. These are not macro lenses in their truest sense, rather these focus at very close distances. There is no way that a digital camera's "macro" mode can capture as much detail as a dedicated macro lens.

Let us demonstrate this with the help of pictures, which would help the reader (and the photographer) clearly see the difference between the two. The first shot has been taken with a normal "kit lens" of the Canon EOS 400D digital SLR (18-55mm IS) with the lens being quite close to the dragon-fly, but then it is not really a macro photograph.

As for the second photograph, there is not really anything to say. The difference is pretty visible, isn't it?

Picture - 1:
Equipment used - Canon EOS 400D coupled with the 18-55mm IS f3.5 - f5.6 lens
Settings used - 55mm @ f5.6, ISO - 200, fill flash used.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3196/2800656496_7bcf18e205_o.jpg

Picture - 2
Equipment used - Canon EOS 300D coupled with the Sigma macro lens

http://i43.tinypic.com/2w36cuo.jpg

Source: http://www.pbase.com/drhangar/image/39298477

SEE ANY DIFFERENCE? :D

[KrishnenduKes]

^ Amazing stuff man! Truly amazing. I appreciate the details given.

It seems your onboard flash did a good job of the lighting in the 2nd photo.

[Aryan]

^^
Oops!

I think I forgot to mention, I had not clicked that picture. (2nd picture) That was taken off the net to show the difference between close up photography and real macro work. It would still take me some time to get to that level with the 100mm macro lens...:p :o But, I'm trying..trying... :)

[Sunny]

Macro Photography is for the patient photographer, which I really am not. One also needs to have a very keen eye and a deep respect of everything small. Of course the right equipment is also a must. A potent combination of the said makes for truly striking photographs of the invisible world to the naked eye. I see it exactly opposite yet terribly similar to astrophotography, in which we are trying to take photos of unimaginably massive intergalactic structures, yet they are smaller than all microbes on this planet due to the distance.

Maco photography has been enabled for the masses by cheap equipment like the 100mm Canon Macro and the Raynox Kits (http://www.adorama.com/IRXCM2000.html).

I am not a Macro guy, here is an effort where I shot a ladybird in Binsar, India in 2008 with a Canon 100mm (handheld/noflash @1/1/125sec, ISO 200):

http://www.thephotographer.in/galleries/data/500/ladybird2.jpg

And a 100% crop:

http://www.thephotographer.in/galleries/data/500/ladybird100crop.jpg

[Aryan]

@Sunny: Patience is surely a virtue which one needs before he/ she dives into the world of macro. :)

Now, I'm looking to get my hands on the Canon MT-24EX Flash! :D And I would also love to try the ever popular "Raynox" kit..:)

[niks_devil666]

@aryan : Do you guys crop the images ?

[Aryan]

@aryan : Do you guys crop the images ?
No, I generally do not crop my pictures neither do I apply any kind of post processing except a little contrast adjustments and a little (one step) sharpening. :)


Okay, since I had earlier talked about the MT-24EX flash equipment for macro photography, let me provide a little information regarding the same.

The Macro Twin Lite MT-24EX is one of the most advanced flash unit available for macro photography. Advanced in all sense - form, functionality and price as well! :p As the name implies, the Canon Macro Twin Lite MT-24EX Flash is primarily suited to macro flash photography. The close subject distances in macro photography require narrow aperture openings to obtain adequate DOF (Depth of Field). These narrow openings require lots of light - or very slow shutter speeds. Slow shutter speeds needs the use of a very stable tripod - and preferably motionless subject.

The other option - lots of light, is generally provided by a flash. The burst of light provided by a flash is generally fast enough to freeze both subject and camera motion.

Here is how the flash unit actually looks (Source: Google Image earch):

http://media.the-digital-picture.com/Images/Other/Canon-MT-24ex-Macro-Flash.jpg

This flash works well with the Canon USM 100mm macro lens as well as the Canon MP-E 65mm (1x - 5x) macro lens. When using a super macro lens such as the Canon MP-E 65mm 1-5x Macro Lens, the Canon Macro Twin Lite MT-24EX Flash becomes almost mandatory. Working distances on this lens become so small that even the tiny flash heads on the MT-24ex can get in the way. The MT-24 is the ideal companion to the MP-E. It will obviously work flawlessly with the 100mm macro lens.

I am looking forward to getting this piece of equipment simply because I have been really frustrated at times with the lack of light at 1:1 shooting distances, although 1:2 or more is not really a problem. :)

Now comes the question of availability. It is available in India, but it surely is expensive. It costs somewhere between the 25-30k mark or thereabouts - pretty damn expensive for a dedicated flash unit, if you ask me. But, if macro photography is what you want to get into seriously, then you cannot just go wrong with it. There are other cheaper options available as well, like the Canon MR 14-EX and ring light flashes.

P.S: @anvancy: I would love it if you can give a short description of the Raynox macro conversion kit. I don't really have much idea about it. It would really be worthwhile for all of us to gain more knowledge about the same.

Thanks,
-Aryan.

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

since aryan has covered almost everything,i dont know what to add!:p(i was writing my part but lights went..so got pissed.)right now on inverter.

@aryan :the raynox kit is a snap on filter that can be attached to the existing lens.it uses the tele end to magnify subjects and provide adequate sharpness and clarity.and its an investment for macro photographers.1.5x 4.8 diopter and 2.5x 8 diopter.total mag is 3.75x when stacked.that gives 12 diopter of ultra clarity images.upon that your crop factor of 1.5x will give..300mm*1.5x=450mm.this 450mm will be magnified by raynox.so 450mm*1.5x=675mm of macro power.upon that further cropping.(hope my calculation are right)

also frankly speaking ill not advise that flash unit.that is meant for people who actually do research on insects and in biology.to be a lover of macro is one thing.but to put lot of money is another thing.

what i generally see is that the moment anybody starts macro,immediate they start using flash.but before doing that just study the natural light that is available.generally there is a lot of light available on macro subjects.its the timing thats critical and the angle at which you shoot.if you only block the light then flash is ok.but sometimes the flash bounces off the barrel giving a big shadow to the subject.but there are ways to avoid that.its upto you to find out those ways.

another way to do macro photography is to make trap glass jars.you take a glass jar with lid,make holes to the lid for air circulation,trap the insect,fly wasp whatever,shoot it..as in click pictures of it,and then leave it.
a sudden reaction..we are killing the insect..NO.we are just trapping the insect to shoot it.we cant be negative on both sides.

its either way.you go out with a lot of patience and shoot,or make a trap jar and shoot.your choice.

[Aryan]

@anvancy: Thanks a ton for providing that information on the Raynox kit. Yes, pretty much all the information is correct except that the Canon D-SLR (APS-C) cameras have a 1.6x crop factor; the 1.5x is for the Nikon bodies..:) So, that would effectively give us a little more telephoto power..;)

Yes, that flash is really expensive. Also, I generally use the on-board flash and I find it to be pretty effective; I haven't really felt the need for any external flashes uptil now. That might perhaps be because I shoot outdoors (gardens, backyard, etc.). If I do try to shoot indoors, either I would require loads of artificial light or the external flash unit, since I guess the on-board flash might cast a hard shadow on the subject.

I almost always shoot outdoors and use the flash only to "fill" in on the dark spots of the subject, which has really helped me. As for the last "technique" you mentioned, I've heard people use such a technique. There is yet another way that people use to shoot pictures of insects, bugs, etc. They keep these insects, bugs in a freezer and then shoot them after they have quite literally 'frozen' (not dead though). But, personally, I find that inhuman, really.

I would most certainly shoot outdoor than do such a thing, but the technique you have mentioned seems better than freezing those beautiful creatures. :) One more important thing to keep in mind if one wants to get into macro photography is this - you need to be FIT! The weird angles that you need to shoot at makes you look like some sort of a contortionist; ofcourse you don't need to be one but it pays to be as fit as a fly. I'm speaking from my personal experience. :)

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

@anvancy: Thanks a ton for providing that information on the Raynox kit. Yes, pretty much all the information is correct except that the Canon D-SLR (APS-C) cameras have a 1.6x crop factor; the 1.5x is for the Nikon bodies.. So, that would effectively give us a little more telephoto power..

Yes, that flash is really expensive. Also, I generally use the on-board flash and I find it to be pretty effective; I haven't really felt the need for any external flashes uptil now. That might perhaps be because I shoot outdoors (gardens, backyard, etc.). If I do try to shoot indoors, either I would require loads of artificial light or the external flash unit, since I guess the on-board flash might cast a hard shadow on the subject.

I almost always shoot outdoors and use the flash only to "fill" in on the dark spots of the subject, which has really helped me. As for the last "technique" you mentioned, I've heard people use such a technique. There is yet another way that people use to shoot pictures of insects, bugs, etc. They keep these insects, bugs in a freezer and then shoot them after they have quite literally 'frozen' (not dead though). But, personally, I find that inhuman, really.

I would most certainly shoot outdoor than do such a thing, but the technique you have mentioned seems better than freezing those beautiful creatures. One more important thing to keep in mind if one wants to get into macro photography is this - you need to be FIT! The weird angles that you need to shoot at makes you look like some sort of a contortionist; ofcourse you don't need to be one but it pays to be as fit as a fly. I'm speaking from my personal experience.

patience really pays off.

while niks asked that is cropping required??well yes.

generally if you are still at a good distance from the subject or the subject is too small,then cropping can be necessary.or you want to show intricate details like the mesh and such then cropping is required.infact many macrokakas do cropping of their work.

second main important thing is post processing.

the best element to use here is the unsharp mask.this magic filter gives the edge in tact sharp and beautiful clear pictures.each image of my work goes under that filter.

macro is relatively easy.at first shooting with raynox is a pain..but once you master it,baye haath ka khel.well sort of.

and once you start macro you see everyday objects on a magnified basis.

anvancy.

[KrishnenduKes]

@Aryan and Anvancy: Brilliant inputs there! Thanks.

[Aryan]

One more thing which would probably be helpful for people who are contemplating on getting into macro photography is using flash while shooting macro photos. Shutter speed is one of the most important aspect of macro photography (after the aperture of course). So, let us talk about that in a litte detail.

Generally, the rule of thumb is to keep the aperture anywhere between say f11 - f22 and bump up the shutter speed as well so that it will freeze the subject. But then, both of these things surely cannot go hand in hand. Say, you keep the aperture at f14 and the shutter speed at 1/500th of a second, the image would surely be under-exposed. I doubt it would be exposed at all! :p One solution to this problem is perhaps to increase the ISO but one should be prepared to deal with noise, as a result.

This is precisely the reason macro and flash go hand in hand. I don't have much idea about external flashes as I haven't used one uptil now, but I generally keep the shutter speed about 1/200th of a second while using flash (as that is the sync speed with the onboard flash of the 400D). External dedicated flashes like the MT-24EX will be obviously more "flexible" and hence would provide more control over the shot.

However, if I am not using flash, then obviously I can bump the shutter speed higher, say somewhere between 1/500 to 1/800th of a second, as a result of which I would obviously need to increase the ISO to the maximum settings (ISO 1600) to get any kind of worthwhile exposure..:p

One thing I would really stress upon is, as much as possible do not disturb the "subject" that you are shooting just for the purpose of getting that "shot". Do not just pick up that little bug from it's natural habitat and place it some place where you can perhaps get a better shot. Instead, be patient, and a time will come when the concerned bug/ insect, etc. will give you the shot you've been looking for. That is why patience is the first and foremost requirement for macro photography (perhaps more important than the equipment)..:p

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

well having taken a sizeable proportion of images through raynox to me shutter speed comes next.for me aperture is first.then comes the natural lighting.generally even when using stacked option i find that there is enough light to actually shoot.but yes.flash on board does help.

another main aspect is to use proper SPOT METERING.that way you get precise metering on the subject that you are shooting and reduces chances of blowouts.in my usage SPOT is preferred,average next and then multi.

if you are shooting insects or flies on a plant or so,look for max green background behind the subject.generally its not possible.but in case you do get a situation,shoot it and then tone down the green,either through zero saturation of background green or masking.
the green acts as your chroma key.

somewhat like this.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3112/2856069769_5097cf3575.jpg

[Aryan]

Macro photography is not only meant for people with capable equipment. People with digital cameras can shoot some real good "macro" pictures, trust me. Before I got my macro lens, I used to shoot close-ups of bugs, insects with the Canon Powershot S3 IS and I still do, and I love it no less than the 100mm macro lens.

Moreover, shooting with a digital camera is less frustrating than using a dedicated macro lens, believe me.

I try and present to you all some simple pointers which anyone shooting macros can keep in mind, more so if you are just starting off with it (with a digital camera).
* The first and foremost point to keep in mind is like any other photo that you take, simplify.
* Secondly, try and fill the photo with your subject.
* I cannot stress enough on the point that sharp focus is a MUST!
* Also, while you are at it, try shooting from different angles. For example, if you’re looking for deep saturation of the colors, use front lighting. If you’d like to bring out the texture of your subject, side lighting is the way to go.
* Due to the narrow depth of field in macro photography, the background will usually be thrown completely out of focus, which allows the natural background to be nice backdrop,. Just make sure you don’t have anything distracting in the back that’s recognizable (branches, cigarette butts, etc.).

You can, for a start, try taking a photo of a bee in resting in a flower. You’ll be astonished by all the little details even that "harmless" digital camera will pick up. Perhaps, even try taking a picture of a little pebble. You wouldn’t believe how nice nature photos are when taken close up. A picture of a raindrop barely clinging to a leaf or tree branch can really be another subject for macro photography.

There is so much out there that we forget about. Next time you think there's nothing to take pictures of, just look a little closer and you'll be surprised at what you might just find. :)

Macro photography ROCKS! :D

Here are a few pictures, I took with the Canon Powershot S3 IS (a humble digital camera). This should surely act as a booster for people who want to get into macro photography, but perhaps are a little skeptical because they think their digital cameras are not "capable enough"...

http://i44.tinypic.com/nmewwg.jpg

http://i44.tinypic.com/ru3af7.jpg

http://i41.tinypic.com/208jnns.jpg

[Aryan]

Let me discuss in a little detail about another aspect of macro photography, which might not seem important but it is perhaps, one of THE MOST important part - "getting close", quite literally!

Photographing bugs, for me, is like a hunting game. You have to work for that trophy and being able to track and stalk the bug are skills that the hunter develops over time.

I especially enjoy dragon flies, although with practice your eyes would be "trained" to scan the area and find the smallest of bugs. I don't go out early mornings or at special times, because I am not a morning person really.

Anyhow, these are a few pointers which I keep in mind while getting close to your subject:

1. Go slow:Be patient, VERY patient. Watch the bug for awhile to see how it behaves.

2. I've also noticed that some bugs are more tolerant than others. Even in the same species, two specimens would never ever behave the same way. One might be more than happy to give you a 100 poses while you click away; while the other would be so skittish that you just cannot get any closer to them, no matter how good your stalking skills are (you might be from the Green Baret elite squad even, but they seem to care two hoots about it..:p).

3. Move slow: Always remember, the bugs have a great sense. Try not to caste your shadow on the bug. If the bug takes off, be very still and wait a minute or two (or more!); it will often return to the same perch.

5. Shutter Maniac: When you find a bug that lets you get close, start firing that shutter like a maniac. Be prepared, such that all settings are as they should be, because you may only get one shot at this.

6. As you master the focus and exposure, you can start looking for cleaner backgrounds and pay more attention to composition (placement of the bug in the frame).

7. Lock the focus and then gently rock the camera back and forth until you find that sweet spot (where the image looks crisp in the viewfinder). This takes a hell lot of practice.

8. Use a small aperture (large F value) to maximize depth of field (the amount of the image in focus). The more magnification, the less depth of field.

9. Shoot on bright days so you can get a decent shutter speed.

10. Last, if the bug gives you the opportunity, try various possibilities. :D


Most of my bugs are photographed in the natural environment. I don't like it when people chill them, or spray them, or glue them, or nail them down JUST to get their shots.

I will sometimes move some blades of grass or vegetation to get a better view perhaps, but they are always alive and well when I shoot them.

Keep Clicking!

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

i like the freezing part..

but dont wanna scare my mom..she uses the fridge more than me!:p

[Aryan]

Following is the macro lens line up from Canon. These are all true macro lenses, shooting upto 1:1 magnification (with the exception of the Canon MP-E 65mm which can shoot from 1:1 upto 5:1!!):

1. Canon 60mm f2.8 macro lens
http://media.the-digital-picture.com/Images/Pic/Canon-EF-S-60mm-f-2.8-Macro-USM-Lens.jpg

2. Canon 100mm f2.8 USM macro lens
http://media.the-digital-picture.com/Images/Pic/Canon-EF-100mm-f-2.8-USM-Macro-Lens.jpg

3. Canon 180mm f3.5L USM lens
http://media.the-digital-picture.com/Images/Pic/Canon-EF-180mm-f-3.5-L-USM-Macro-Lens.jpg

4. Canon MP-E 65mm f2.8 (1x to 5x macro lens)
http://media.the-digital-picture.com/Images/Pic/Canon-MP-E-65mm-1-5x-Macro-Lens.jpg

I would've loved to get my hands on the MP-E, but it costs a LOT, and since it cannot be used as a general purpose lens (it is a specialized macro lens), it somehow disappointed me. Moreover, I don't think I am capable enough to shoot at those high magnification ratios! :p

[Aryan]

Another type of flash that is commonly used for macro photography is ring flash. Actually, Canon makes two similar macro flash systems, the MR-14EX Ring Lite and MT-24EX Twin Flash. Both surround the front of a standard Canon macro lens, like the Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM lens.

A ring flash, like the MR-14EX Ring Lite has two tubes forming a ring around the front of the macro lens. It is a reasonably diffuse light source if the object to be photographed is small (as is the case with macro photography). Ring lights are among the most uniform light sources, producing shadowless images with little variation from person to person. As such, they are the standard for much macro photography.

Here is how a typical ring flash looks.

http://i39.tinypic.com/2jc91ed.jpg

Canon MR-14EX Ring Lite (Image source: Google image search).

[Aryan]

Okay, here are 25 beautiful macro pictures that should inspire us to go out, and shoot more macros..:D (I am posting a few, more can be found on the link below.)
Source: THIS (http://www.smashingmagazine.com/2008/09/21/25-beautiful-macro-photography-shots-photos/) page.

http://i44.tinypic.com/96f57r.jpg

http://i41.tinypic.com/2i27fit.jpg

http://i39.tinypic.com/xqia8y.jpg

http://i43.tinypic.com/idyqnq.jpg

http://i44.tinypic.com/212ti04.jpg

http://i42.tinypic.com/33or14n.jpg

http://i39.tinypic.com/9ie7ev.jpg

http://i41.tinypic.com/wraxl1.jpg

http://i41.tinypic.com/2ezh35g.jpg

http://i43.tinypic.com/2gwuxza.jpg

[Aryan]

Here are a few shots which I clicked this morning:

EXIF:
Images shot at f18, 1/200, on-board flash.

Dew drops on rose petal:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3218/3143569076_800fed2eb3_o.jpg

Dew drops on a small (real tiny) leaf:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3218/3143570690_33cc884ea3_o.jpg

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

aryan..why am i seeing the wasp a little not correct.like its not proper sharp and clear.is it a crop.the rose water shot and the leaf both look beautiful,but the wasp seems a little odd in quality.:)

[cosgeo]

Thx Aryan & Anvancy for putting more light on such a beautiful subject.

Now ive a problem. Earlier I had a PnS Sony DSC 110 with which i could go close to the object click snaps. The cam would auto focus and the result would be sharp images. Ive recently upgraded to a Sony H50 with a 35mm-475mm lens on it. Now when i try to zoom very close to the object the cam is not able to focus & i get blurr images. The focal lenght of the lens is 5.2 - 78 mm. I knw itz not a macro lens but as aryan said tht macro shots can be taken from ny type of cam. Wht should i do to get the bug on the sensor, sharp.

Also i wanted to ask , should one use the max res of the cam for macro shots or it doesnot matter.

[Aryan]

@anvancy: Yes, the wasp is a massive, MASSIVE crop.. :p Actually, that wasn't clicked as a macro at all..!! :D

@cos: I am sure your digital camera has a "macro" mode, put it on that mode and then try and shoot the subject. The lens should focus. :)

[KrishnenduKes]

@Aryan: Brilliant inputs there! Bravo!

[cosgeo]

Here is a closeup tht ive clicked. I don't think so it qualifies as a macro :).

http://img53.zoomin.com/1231219817/503013834_v.jpg

Would like some comments on it......

[leon_nerd]

^^^ Get closer :).

[Xavier]

Awesome writeup Aryan and Anvancy!
I have two questions.
Are there any specific places one needs to search while looking for insects like beetles and dragonflies?
Also I'm planning to buy the Tamron 70-300 4-5.6 which has a built in macro option in it. I know that 1:2 isn't true macro, but is it any good?
I cannot really afford to buy a true macro lens for my 1000D. Just bought the camera last month, so I'm a little low on funds right now. :(

[Aryan]

@pageisgod: Glad that you could find some useful information in these pages. :) As for your queries:

1. Dragonflies are mostly existent where there is shallow water, like a small pond or some place similar. Beetles, I am not quite sure of.

2. How much does the Tamron lens cost? You can get the Canon 100mm USM f2.8 macro lens, which can also be used as a general purpose short telephoto lens (apart from shooting 'true' macro ofcourse).. :)

[KrishnenduKes]

1. Dragonflies are mostly existent where there is shallow water, like a small pond or some place similar. Beetles, I am not quite sure of.

2. How much does the Tamron lens cost? You can get the Canon 100mm USM f2.8 macro lens, which can also be used as a general purpose short telephoto lens (apart from shooting 'true' macro ofcourse).. :)

Thanks for the Dragonfly info.

What is the difference of "true macro" between the Tamron that he is talking about and the Canon that you have?

[Aryan]

Thanks for the Dragonfly info.

What is the difference of "true macro" between the Tamron that he is talking about and the Canon that you have?
In simple words, macro photography means that the image projected on the digital sensor (of the D-SLR in this case) is same size as the subject (life-size).

On the other hand when we talk about 1:2 macro, the image on the sensor is 1/2 the size of the object being photographed. For example, the Canon 50mm f2.5 is not a true macro lens as it shoots in 1:2 magnification, while the 100mm f2.8 USM Canon macro lens can be called a "true" macro lens as it shoots upto 1:1 magnification.

One can also look at the Canon MP-E 65mm 1x - 5x macro lens, if he wants to get into extreme macro photography. The MP-E starts where other typical macro lenses end (1:1). The MP can shoot FROM 1:1 all the way upto 5:1, that is five times life-size!!

However, in the above context the Tamron lens that he is planning to get will not be able to shoot in any higher magnification than 1:2 (half life-size).

[Xavier]

1. Dragonflies are mostly existent where there is shallow water, like a small pond or some place similar. Beetles, I am not quite sure of.

2. How much does the Tamron lens cost? You can get the Canon 100mm USM f2.8 macro lens, which can also be used as a general purpose short telephoto lens (apart from shooting 'true' macro ofcourse).. :)

Thanks for the info about dragonfiles :)

About the Tamron lens, it's available at JJMehta's (Mumbai) for Rs7.5k. I was looking for a medium telephoto zoom lens and it's giving me 1:2 macro too. I've heard pretty good reviews about it and at 7.5k I cant really ask for more.
Here's the source of the 70-300mm f4/5.6 Tamron lens info :
Price (http://www.jjmehta.com/pricelist/dslr_lenses_pricing.htm#Tamron_Lens)
Info (http://www.jjmehta.com/products/tamronaf70300.html)

[nelson_sanjoy]

^^^ make that lens a true macro by use of kenko extension tubes . A cheaper option to go more than 1:1

[KrishnenduKes]

^^^ make that lens a true macro by use of kenko extension tubes . A cheaper option to go more than 1:1

What are the penalties in sharpness and clarity if any? Are they commercially available in this country?

[Aryan]

Yes, one can actually use extention tubes for macro work as well. Extension tubes are an attractive way of adding macro capability to a lens. ;) These are available for both Canon and Nikon. Kenko, for example, makes extension tubes for almost all the D-SLRs available today. But one thing that I would like to clarify here is that an extension tube is different from a tele-extender or a tele-converter for that matter.

For example, a tele-converter is designed to actually increase the focal length of a lens. However, this increased focal length costs speed. On the other hand an extension tube is designed to increase the image size that is projected on the digital sensor of the D-SLR so that macro photographs can be taken. The main advantage of an extension tube is its price - it is DIRT cheap, really. It also works with most of the lenses, except perhaps those that have very short focal lengths.

As for the disadvantages of extension tubes, although I haven't used them personally but from what I've heard, they cause increased chromatic abberation especially in some high contrast pictures. One major disadvantage to using extension tubes is that all auto functions on the lens such as aperture and focus will not be available while using these tubes. Having no autofocus and a dark viewfinder, it can make focusing manually extremely difficult. Also, note that as there is no practical data connection between the camera and the lens when using extension tubes, the camera really doesn't know which "lens" you are using and hence some useful information like EXIF data will NOT be stored. Also they cause some loss of light, so you will need to take that into consideration as well if you plan on using extension tubes.

Here is how an extension tube actually looks:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2296/1947097504_19732de6b1_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2078/1946259413_a5d68befe1_o.jpg

P.S:
Image Source: Google.

[KrishnenduKes]

@Aryan: And what is the magnification that can be achieved with an extension like this that you have shown?

[Aryan]

@Aryan: And what is the magnification that can be achieved with an extension like this that you have shown?
I really don't have any idea about this, as I've not got the chance to use one. :o

[Xavier]

Thanks for the detailed information about the Extension tubes, Aryan.
Has anyone here used it extensively?
nelson_sanjoy??

[Aryan]

Thanks for the detailed information about the Extension tubes, Aryan.
Has anyone here used it extensively?
nelson_sanjoy??
I was contemplating on getting the tubes before I actually got the 100mm macro lens. But, it all seemed a little too cumbersome to mount these each time I wanted to click macros; instead I waited for a couple of months and got the 100mm! :D

[Xavier]

lol, You are a rich man Aryan :p. The Canon 100mm USM f2.8 costs somewhere around 27k, doesn't it? :(

[Aryan]

lol, You are a rich man Aryan :p. The Canon 100mm USM f2.8 costs somewhere around 27k, doesn't it? :(
Rich man! Crap! :D It took me quite a while (and many sleepless nights) actually to decide on seriously investing so much money into photographic equipments..:o :p

It costs 22k, gray market - Delhi..

[Xavier]

Rich man! Crap! :D It took me quite a while (and many sleepless nights) actually to decide on seriously investing so much money into photographic equipments..:o :p

That's how I felt when I bought my camera! My parents will throw me out if I spend that kind of money on a piece of glass. :( It's kinda tough to explain stuff about lenses and tripods and their advantages to folks who think that spending 33k on a camera is a complete waste of money! :(

[Aryan]

That's how I felt when I bought my camera! My parents will throw me out if I spend that kind of money on a piece of glass. :( It's kinda tough to explain stuff about lenses and tripods and their advantages to folks who think that spending 33k on a camera is a complete waste of money! :(
I know buddy and this feeling is mutual among parents, trust me!

Do try macro photography with your Sigma lens. Believe me, getting down to 1:1 for the first time is a daunting task. Your Sigma lens would ease you into it. :) Do try some pictures and share with us, here.

First, try and shoot stationery subjects; then move on to "live" ones. :)

[Xavier]

I know buddy and this feeling is mutual among parents, trust me!

Do try macro photography with your Sigma lens. Believe me, getting down to 1:1 for the first time is a daunting task. Your Sigma lens would ease you into it. :) Do try some pictures and share with us, here.

First, try and shoot stationery subjects; then move on to "live" ones. :)

You mean the Tamron, don't you? ;)
Anyway, there's an equally priced 70-300mm with the same 1:2 macro capability Sigma too. I might get my hands on either of the two ;)
Thanks for the tips mate! :)

[Aryan]

You mean the Tamron, don't you? ;)
Anyway, there's an equally priced 70-300mm with the same 1:2 macro capability Sigma too. I might get my hands on either of the two ;)
Thanks for the tips mate! :)
Oops! My bad; yes, the Tamron.. :o

[nelson_sanjoy]

Thanks for the detailed information about the Extension tubes, Aryan.
Has anyone here used it extensively?
nelson_sanjoy??

Didn't use it extensively but rented it once just to see and use - how it is .
@Aryan has already given quite a good desription of Kenko.

They are available individually or come in different sets of 12mm,20mm ,25mm etc..You can either use them individually or join them together .The build is ok and there is no optics involved .Basically It just increases the distance between the lens and the sensor so as to focus much closer than it originaly did and thus increasing magnification.

A description (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/375102-REG/Kenko_AEXTUBEDGC_Auto_Extension_Tube_Set.html#feat ures)

Advantages are as #Aryan said low cost ,can be used with any lens but you will get different magnification with different lenses and setups sometimes much more than 2:1 . Like when used with 100/2.8 macro <click> (http://www.lensplay.com/lenses/lens_data.php?lensID=22) it gives 1.61 :1 when used with 25mm tube.

when used with 17-55/2.8 IS USM
<click> (http://www.lensplay.com/lenses/lens_data.php?lensID=186) it gives 1.71:1 when used with 25mm tube

Disadvantages are - you loose AF but anyway best macros are always MF but with some of these AF still works but in certain apretures.
The DOF becomes very shallow when you use these and it demands a better focussing hand and lot of light. In one word its a poor mans macro setup but still you can get great results if you like experimenting similar to the reverse lens macro setup .

But at the end of day I would always say a dedicated maccro setup is best if you want to be a macrographer. Remember macro primes are regarded as the sharpest of the lenses ever made.

[Xavier]

Thanks Nelson! (or is it Sanjoy?)
Any idea about the approximate cost of the extension tubes?

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

A to Z of achromats and macro tips explained.

http://www.ki.tng.de/~sgude/achromats.html

anvancy.

[Aryan]

A to Z of achromats and macro tips explained.

http://www.ki.tng.de/~sgude/achromats.html

anvancy.
Nice link, but a little too shoddy for my liking, really crammed with tables and stuff. Simple and precise information is what I always like. ;) Thanks for sharing, ofcourse. :)

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

Nice link, but a little too shoddy for my liking, really crammed with tables and stuff. Simple and precise information is what I always like. ;) Thanks for sharing, ofcourse. :)

the tables only tell you the real difference between brand achromats.
graphs also.

[Aryan]

Anyone's been using the macro ringlite flashes (preferably the Canon macro Ringlite MR-14EX) here? I would love to get a first hand report of one, before splurging on spending the big bucks on one. I am sure it is a good investment as far as macro photography is concerned, but nevertheless a first-hand report would really be helpful. :)

Thanks.

[KrishnenduKes]

I am sure it is a good investment as far as macro photography is concerned, but nevertheless a first-hand report would really be helpful. :)

Thanks.

You got the camera, you got the lens. Why don't you try it out yourself at the Canon showroom? You cannot get a better report than that. Carry your laptop as well.

[Aryan]

You got the camera, you got the lens. Why don't you try it out yourself at the Canon showroom? You cannot get a better report than that. Carry your laptop as well.
I enquired at a couple of Canon authorised showrooms, but they did not have the MR-14EX ringlite flash with them, although, they assured me they would get it in a couple of hour's time IF I want it bad enough! :D

P.S: I don't have a laptop! :p :D

[KrishnenduKes]

I enquired at a couple of Canon authorised showrooms, but they did not have the MR-14EX ringlite flash with them, although, they assured me they would get it in a couple of hour's time IF I want it bad enough! :D

P.S: I don't have a laptop! :p :D

Then say that you need it bad enough. But only after you have tested its viability and effects. Tell them money is not a problem. You know, in most countries, cash in hand speaks a different language. They Will get it for you. And you can test it out. Take it if you like it. Leave it if you don't!

And take someone with you who has a laptop.

[Aryan]

Here are some shots of a flower I got as a special gift this evening! ;) :D

EXIF:
1st picture - EOS 400D, 50mm, f2, 1/320/ ISO 100

2nd, 3rd, 4th picture - EOS 400D, 100mm, f22, 1/8 seconds, ISO 200, on-board flash fired

The Flower:
http://i41.tinypic.com/ivk679.jpg

And ofcourse some 1:1 shots of the very same flower Damn! I LOVE the lens!! :D
http://i42.tinypic.com/qn0k80.jpg

http://i44.tinypic.com/dbi73b.jpg

http://i44.tinypic.com/xaxbpj.jpg

[KrishnenduKes]

Here are some shots of a flower I got as a special gift this evening! ;) :D

EXIF:
1st picture - EOS 400D, 50mm, f2, 1/320/ ISO 100

2nd, 3rd, 4th picture - EOS 400D, 100mm, f22, 1/8 seconds, ISO 200, on-board flash fired

The Flower:

And ofcourse some 1:1 shots of the very same flower Damn! I LOVE the lens!! :D


Damn good Aryan. I am beginning to like the lens too now!!! I liked the first of the 1:1 flower, has a very interesting unreal look to it. Thanks!

[Aryan]

Damn good Aryan. I am beginning to like the lens too now!!! I liked the first of the 1:1 flower, has a very interesting unreal look to it. Thanks!
Thank you. I am glad you liked it. As I begin to use the lens more extensively, I, myself am "discovering" it..!! This is the lens that stays 90 percent of the times on the 400D these days! ;)

[nelson_sanjoy]

Great Macros @Aryan ... Keep them coming

[KrishnenduKes]

Thank you. I am glad you liked it. As I begin to use the lens more extensively, I, myself am "discovering" it..!! This is the lens that stays 90 percent of the times on the 400D these days! ;)

Also wanted to ask you... are the colours looking slightly saturated to you? Did you do any PP to your work?

[Aryan]

Also wanted to ask you... are the colours looking slightly saturated to you? Did you do any PP to your work?
No, not really. I don't generally play around with saturation. I like to keep it natural. Perhaps, because I've tweaked the contrast, the colors are looking a little over-saturated. I don't really know... :o

@Nelson: Thanks buddy, I am glad you liked them. :)

[KrishnenduKes]

@Aryan: Could you show us the "stock" photograph please in ofcourse 1024 resized?

[Aryan]

@Aryan: Could you show us the "stock" photograph please in ofcourse 1024 resized?
Errr..I am at work right now...:o

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

our general scene at an INDIAN camera shop.you know its reverse here in india.we are the beggars and the shops are kings.like aryan went to see to check out flash he wanted,they have everything..they just dont want to entertain.they think we are some dumb fools knowing zero of stuff and they predict they can win our minds.

so mostly TESTING part seems inexistent in their dictionary.

sometime back me and my friend went to a camera shop.there was a pentax k10d kept in a nice glass case.as if thats his sole possession.we both asked him whether he could show us the camera.he simply refused.lena hai to nikalunga.
we both got pissed.pasand aaya to lenge na..was our answer.waise bhi u are not alone in city..and furious we left the shop,the owner looking in a confused state.thats our camera shop mentality.

aryan..my suggestion to you.
if they dont show u the flash,shoot a mail to canon india..write that you will lose a probable customer..that works.

if that doesnt..try canon global.they care more.
thats why many buy stuff from abroad.the shops..(excluding gray)think that we are children,only when we come with our parents then buy is possible..but they dumba**e* dont know that we children only motivate our parents to buy stuff.:p
anvancy.

[Aryan]

@anvancy: Yes, very very true, indeed. I even asked them whether I can try the equipment (any equipment) before I pay them. As expected, they seemed quite hesitant, almost as if a newbie had asked them! :p :D

[nabendubasu]

@aryan/avancy:is it neccessery to keep the camera in macro mode?

[Aryan]

@aryan/avancy:is it neccessery to keep the camera in macro mode?
On a D-SLR, NO. On a digital camera, YES.

[Sarao]

our general scene at an INDIAN camera shop.you know its reverse here in india.we are the beggars and the shops are kings.like aryan went to see to check out flash he wanted,they have everything..they just dont want to entertain.they think we are some dumb fools knowing zero of stuff and they predict they can win our minds.

so mostly TESTING part seems inexistent in their dictionary.

sometime back me and my friend went to a camera shop.there was a pentax k10d kept in a nice glass case.as if thats his sole possession.we both asked him whether he could show us the camera.he simply refused.lena hai to nikalunga.
we both got pissed.pasand aaya to lenge na..was our answer.waise bhi u are not alone in city..and furious we left the shop,the owner looking in a confused state.thats our camera shop mentality.

aryan..my suggestion to you.
if they dont show u the flash,shoot a mail to canon india..write that you will lose a probable customer..that works.

if that doesnt..try canon global.they care more.
thats why many buy stuff from abroad.the shops..(excluding gray)think that we are children,only when we come with our parents then buy is possible..but they dumba**e* dont know that we children only motivate our parents to buy stuff.:p
anvancy.
Exactly, Here in Punjab, I know only two shops at Chandigarh who sells DSLR goodies. I knew when I was about to buy 50mm for the first time. So what I did, I asked him several questions there at the shop about different lenses, bodies flashes and that changed his gestures toward me. Now I know them and I dont have to visit their shop, I simply call them and if they dont have any product I want, they get it arranged. I bought my 17-70 this way. They did not have that lens, I called them and they ordered it from delhi and delivered me the next day!

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

@aryan/anvancy:is it neccessery to keep the camera in macro mode?


it depends upon ur distance between u and the subject.sometimes yes macro mode,sometimes super macro mode and sometimes no mode.

[Xavier]

@ Anvancy/Aryan

Is the Raynox DCR-250 compatible with the 18-55 kit lens (Nikon, Canon, etc) and/or the Canon EF-S 55-250 f4-5.6IS?

[Aryan]

@ Anvancy/Aryan

Is the Raynox DCR-250 compatible with the 18-55 kit lens (Nikon, Canon, etc) and/or the Canon EF-S 55-250 f4-5.6IS?
I have got hold of the Raynox DCR-250 from "archistar". Although I haven't got a chance to extensively test it "in the field" :D , it does fit perfectly fine on the 50mm f1.8 II lens and the Canon 100mm f2.8 USM Macro lens. :) The 18-55mm kit lens also takes it; no problems at all sir. :)

So, my guess is that the 55-250mm would also take it easily. Are you planning to get one?

[Xavier]

I have got hold of the Raynox DCR-250 from "archistar". Although I haven't got a chance to extensively test it "in the field" :D , it does fit perfectly fine on the 50mm f1.8 II lens and the Canon 100mm f2.8 USM Macro lens. :) The 18-55mm kit lens also takes it; no problems at all sir. :)

So, my guess is that the 55-250mm would also take it easily. Are you planning to get one?

Thanks a ton mate! :)
Not planning on getting it right now, but in the near future. i.e, after getting my hands on the 55-250 :p
The DCR-250 costs around $100 if I'm not mistaken, right?

[Aryan]

Thanks a ton mate! :)
The DCR-250 costs around $100 if I'm not mistaken, right?
Perhaps, anvancy and archistar can answer this question better. ;)

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

the raynox kit is for around 100$ the 250 is half that cost.

i would advise a tele instead of wide,even if u get mag.

[KrishnenduKes]

Now it is time to put up some really good Macros for all you guys with such good equipment at your disposal. How long has Archi been holding this and not telling us about it?

[Aryan]

Now it is time to put up some really good Macros for all you guys with such good equipment at your disposal. How long has Archi been holding this and not telling us about it?
Archi has barely got any time to use it..:p Now, I have snatched it from him.. :D Will try the "famed" Raynox this weekend and post the results here. :)

[powerslave]

Looking forward to some kickass macros. :)

[Aryan]

After a fairly long time, got to shoot some macro photographs. Also, got to use the Raynox macro conversion kit (DCR-250) first time, properly.

http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/8637/mg3549tx2.jpg

The flower:
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/3126/mg3584ui8.jpg

Same flower with the Raynox and the 100mm macro lens:
http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/7265/mg3560da5.jpg

http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/341/mg3561nc5.jpg

http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/4201/mg3562dy9.jpg

http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/2831/mg3585wx6.jpg

http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/1171/mg3586cm3.jpg


Flower: 2
http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/9165/mg3565xj5.jpg

With the Raynox and Canon 100mm macro lens:
http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/4805/mg3569bj5.jpg

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/5636/mg3581hp0.jpg

[Vicky]

Aryan, I seriously feel that you have a real passion for macro photography... but due to lack of equipment, your macro shots are not really popping:(

I am unable to see the exif on these, but its quite evident that you have had to use very high ISO to get these shots. But, macro & high ISO just don't get go well together. You badly need an external flash!!! I suggest before getting the 10-20, you get yourself a 430EX and then make a DIY macro diffuser / extender for it.... Something like this:

http://img76.imageshack.us/img76/3707/dpp4007qs0.jpg

This will add a new dimension to both your macro and well as indoor photography...

Just my two cents:)

I don't see you asking for it, but here's my thoughts on these...


http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/8637/mg3549tx2.jpg

Average shot, WB looks off... the whites have a distinct yellow tone... very visible noise in the shadows..

The flower:
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/3126/mg3584ui8.jpg

good composition, but much more noise, flower too dirty...

Same flower with the Raynox and the 100mm macro lens:
http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/7265/mg3560da5.jpg

highly over sharpened..

http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/341/mg3561nc5.jpg

no noise, but too little in focus..

http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/4201/mg3562dy9.jpg

again WB issue here..the yellows have a very greenish tome..and all that dirt is making the photo unpleasant..

http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/2831/mg3585wx6.jpg

again too little in focus..and underexposed too

http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/1171/mg3586cm3.jpg

again noise issue here.. also nothing interesting in the frame..

Flower: 2
http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/9165/mg3565xj5.jpg

This is my favorite of the lot...great exposure... good DOF...less noise.. interesting subject....no dirt.... only improvement could be if the focus was on the bee... here its more on the tips of the petals behind the bee.

With the Raynox and Canon 100mm macro lens:
http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/4805/mg3569bj5.jpg

This one had the potential for a great photo... just love the all encompassing orange and the glow through the petals... but looks like the bee moved and turned out blurry... may have got further spoiled due to attempted sharpening of the bee.. If you could pass on a full size version(or Raw) I would love to attempt a rescue here

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/5636/mg3581hp0.jpg

doesn't work for me... too little DOF..

[Aryan]

Hey Vicky, thanks a ton for those comments. :) Yes, ISO was a little too high for sure. :o Also, I am having a tough time finding clean and clear flowers in the dingy capital! :(

As for the flash, I guess I need one ASAP! *Sigh* If only those didn't cost so much... :(

P.S: I really appreciate your true and straight-forward C&C. Please keep them coming in the future too. :) :)

[Vicky]

Hey Vicky, thanks a ton for those comments. :) Yes, ISO was a little too high for sure. :o Also, I am having a tough time finding clean and clear flowers in the dingy capital! :(

As for the flash, I guess I need one ASAP! *Sigh* If only those didn't cost so much... :(

P.S: I really appreciate your true and straight-forward C&C. Please keep them coming in the future too. :) :)

Thanks Aryan! My only intent is to help you in your passion for macro:)

Don't bother about clean flowers... I've read many macro gurus carry a small brush, a rocket blower and a water spray bottle with them when they go out on the hunt;)

With the release of the 430EX II, brand new 430EX I's are available in the grey market for less than 10k... a great deal in my opinion:)

[Aryan]

@Vicky: I heard and read that the 430EX has a tilt and swivel head. Won't that much tilt and swivel work to provide ample light for macro work? Or will I specifically NEED to make a DIY diffuser for the 430EX?

I seriously want to get the Canon Ring-Lite (MR 14EX), but it's price is a "fortune" for me! :(

[Vicky]

@Vicky: I heard and read that the 430EX has a tilt and swivel head. Won't that much tilt and swivel work? Or will I specifically NEED to make a DIY diffuser?

I seriously want to get the Canon Ring-Lite, but it's price is a "fortune" for me! :(

Yes, it has a tilt & swivel head, but in the forward facing position, it does not bend lower than parallel to the lens... this should not be an issue when working with the 100mm macro even at 1:1 because this lens has a minimum working distance of about 6" from the front of the lens at this magnification. But, when working with the rayonax or reverse macro, where the working distance is much less, the front of the lens will obstruct the light from the flash and hence u need to make a special diffuser/ extender for it:)

[Aryan]

Yes, it has a tilt & swivel head, but in the forward facing position, it does not bend lower than parallel to the lens... this should not be an issue when working with the 100mm macro even at 1:1 because this lens has a minimum working distance of about 6" from the front of the lens at this magnification. But, when working with the rayonax or reverse macro, where the working distance is much less, the front of the lens will obstruct the light from the flash and hence u need to make a special diffuser/ extender for it:)
Great! Which means, just the 100mm mounted on the cam, the 430EX can really be helpful, right? This is good news.. :D I would've ideally liked to try the flash before I actually put down money to get one though. :o

EDIT: I was just wondering, if the 430EX is good enough for macro work as well, then what is the need to get the Canon Ring-lite MR-14EX for the same? Will the 14EX provide much more "softer" feel to the image than the 430EX? Or is there any other reason to it as well? A little confusion that I have...

[Vicky]

Here's two links that might help you:

1) This guy made this DIY diffuser (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=502861) for the 430ex to use with his 100mm macro

2) Then, these are the photos (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=522876)he captured with this setup.

If u check his Exif, most of the shots are shot in manual mode 1/200, f/11, ISO 200. The ETTL of the flash decides the final exposure by varying the flash power:)

I would've ideally liked to try the flash before I actually put down money to get one though. :o

Why not meet up at Guwahati the next time when u visit your home town Shillong. I'd be more than glad to loan you my 430EX for a week. U can comfortable return it on your way back:)

[Aryan]

Wow! That flash really IS helpful. Thanks! But, if I do not create a 'diffuser', will the macro photos still be as terrific as these (even close to these)? I am really itching to try out the 430EX now.

Vicky, did you happen to click any macro pictures with just the 430EX mounted (without the DIY diffuser)? I would love to see the result of just the 100mm macro (or any macro lens) and the 430EX. :)

[Vicky]

Wow! That flash really IS helpful. Thanks! But, if I do not create a 'diffuser', will the macro photos still be as terrific as these (even close to these)? I am really itching to try out the 430EX now.

Vicky, did you happen to click any macro pictures with just the 430EX mounted (without the DIY diffuser)? I would love to see the result of just the 100mm macro (or any macro lens) and the 430EX. :)

Without the diffuser, the light will be more direct and harsher than what you saw in this thread, but in spite of this, your results will be immensely better that what you're getting now.

Aryan, I don't have any real macro lens:( However, if you remember the sunflower shots... they were with 18-50 Macro and 430ex direct:)

[Aryan]

Without the diffuser, the light will be more direct and harsher than what you saw in this thread, but in spite of this, your results will be immensely better that what you're getting now.

Aryan, I don't have any real macro lens:( However, if you remember the sunflower shots... they were with 18-50 Macro and 430ex direct:)
Okay, the results would be much better than what I am currently getting with the onboard flash - this stament sums it up for me.. ;)

And ofcourse I remember the sunflower shots. Those were terrific, and now that I got to know that those were clicked wit the 430EX and the DIY diffuser, seems totally worth it..:D

E-bay India says it would cost me about 12,500 with bill and warranty. Not really a big amount but even then I guess I need to think about my options. ;) This flash can also be used for macro as well as "normal" photography, right Vicky? The confusion still remains - why use a dedicated macro flash like the 14EX when the 430EX provides the same result? I guess with the 14EX Ring-lite, I would not have to use DIY diffuser. :p

But Vicky, you are beginning to be of tremendous help, really! :)

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

aryan..u didnt write how u felt using the raynox!:p

[Aryan]

aryan..u didnt write how u felt using the raynox!:p
Raynox is good, but I somehow liked it more when it was on the 50mm than on the 100mm. Simply because connected with the 100mm and the lens set to a magnification of 1:1, it really becomes damn tough to shoot at those magnifications hand held. A tripod at those large magnifications becomes a neccessity.

I have no idea how much magnification is acheived when the Raynox DCR-250 is mounted on the 100mm macro lens, and the lens is set to 1:1 magnification! But from the viewfinder, even a tiny speck of a subject looks HUGE! :D

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

Raynox is good, but I somehow liked it more when it was on the 50mm than on the 100mm. Simply because connected with the 100mm and the lens set to a magnification of 1:1, it really becomes damn tough to shoot at those magnifications hand held. A tripod at those large magnifications becomes a neccessity.

I have no idea how much magnification is acheived when the Raynox DCR-250 is mounted on the 100mm macro lens, and the lens is set to 1:1 magnification! But from the viewfinder, even a tiny speck of a subject looks HUGE! :D

the frustation comes when everytime u have to look THRU the viewfinder,and u wonder..live view is a boon then.!;)

[nelson_sanjoy]

To all the Macrographers :

How would you compare Kenko Extension tubes with macro lenses like Raynox ?

Which one among them would give greater magnification and VFM when used with same lenses?

[Aryan]

To all the Macrographers :

How would you compare Kenko Extension tubes with macro lenses like Raynox ?

Which one among them would give greater magnification and VFM when used with same lenses?
I haven't used any extension tubes, but have spent some time using the Raynox kit. The Raynox kit is a decent addition if you use a 'normal' lens, like say the 50mm and want to shoot some macro photographs. I don't know how much the extension tubes cost, but my guess is it would cost less than the Raynox kit.

The DCR-250 Raynox magnification kit is available for about one hundred dollars, if I remember correctly. :) But, Raynox sure is a tremendous value-for-money proposition since when attached to practically any lens, you can get into macro distances! Amazing, really if one thinks about it.

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

To all the Macrographers :

How would you compare Kenko Extension tubes with macro lenses like Raynox ?

Which one among them would give greater magnification and VFM when used with same lenses?

those are two separate pieces of equipment.

extension tubes help you extend your lens.sort of a alternative to macro DSLR lenses.raynox is a proper magnification lens when coupled with lens 50mm and above magnifies subjects for macro use.

many use raynoxes once they feel that the extensions have become obsulete.

the kit of 1.5x and 2.5x is available for under 100$


anvancy.

[Xavier]

You guys need to check this out

http://www.flickr.com/photos/aaronth/127814370/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/aaronth/155329310/

And the result

Poor Man's Macro! :D
http://www.flickr.com/photos/aaronth/155329495/sizes/l/

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

again had a window of opportunity today.

a fly of different kind was sitting in the garden.chance of putting tripod was slim,since it had once ran away when i tried to establish tripod in front of it.so that leaves me handheld.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3599/3292087203_b74ea9b512.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3548/3292086979_70d3f565d7.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3243/3292086627_be8f5cc93c.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3637/3292087523_62ed61e3f1.jpg

all handheld with raynox 250.

uncropped.

anvancy.

[Aryan]

Do you know if Tamron 90mm is compatable with Canon macro ring lite flashes ?

Hi Nelson, Sorry, I don't really know whether the Canon ring-lite flash is actually compatible with the Tamron 90mm macro lens or not. Neither have I used the 90mm lens nor have I any experience of using the Canon Ring-lite flash from Canon. :(

[nelson_sanjoy]

Hi Nelson, Sorry, I don't really know whether the Canon ring-lite flash is actually compatible with the Tamron 90mm macro lens or not. Neither have I used the 90mm lens nor have I any experience of using the Canon Ring-lite flash from Canon. :(

OHHK No Problemo - I thought you might know since you were researching about the Macro Ring lite flashes...

[KrishnenduKes]

Hi Nelson, Sorry, I don't really know whether the Canon ring-lite flash is actually compatible with the Tamron 90mm macro lens or not. Neither have I used the 90mm lens nor have I any experience of using the Canon Ring-lite flash from Canon. :(

OHHK No Problemo - I thought you might know since you were researching about the Macro Ring lite flashes...

Just for the info of those interested...

Today I went to the ortho-dentist with my son (he has quite a few tooth problems, overcrowding, over-closure, etc...). The ortho-dentist took photographs of his teeth with a P&S Canon in Macro mode. And he was using a Vivitar Ring Flash with a slave unit. I was pretty impressed. He said that he has been using it since the days of Film SLR cameras, for over 10 years and he had bought it for a sum of 9K.

I am not sure if it still exists. I am sure it would be interesting for Macro freaks.

[Aryan]

The ortho-dentist took photographs of his teeth with a P&S Canon in Macro mode.
Dentists are the ones who use macro flashes/ macro photography really well. Perhaps, some tips from them would be lovely! :D

Sometime back, when I did go to a dentist, she took some shots on the super macro mode of this Canon P&S that she was using along with certain flash (don't remember which). I started discussing macro photography with her, forgetting about my dental problems, and she thought I was 'hitting' on her! :p :D

Pathetic!

[Xavier]

Here's something that Aryan might find useful?
Poor Man's Ring Flash (http://www.adidap.com/2007/12/20/diy-poors-man-ring-flash/)

And here's the result of it

http://www.pbase.com/duncanc/image/84869713/large

[KrishnenduKes]

Here's something that Aryan might find useful?
Poor Man's Ring Flash (http://www.adidap.com/2007/12/20/diy-poors-man-ring-flash/)

And here's the result of it

http://www.pbase.com/duncanc/image/84869713/large

Wow! That Bumble bee was something!

Could not see the link of the poor man's ring flash though!

[Xavier]

Could not see the link of the poor man's ring flash though!

Weird! Is nobody else able to access that link? BTW, it's more of a ring diffuser than a ring flash.

[KrishnenduKes]

Weird! Is nobody else able to access that link? BTW, it's more of a ring diffuser than a ring flash.

Ah! Now I can. I wonder why I couldn't see it last night.

Superb!

[BANDHAV]

Ice ice baby:


http://i44.tinypic.com/10po7ih.jpg

[KrishnenduKes]

Ice ice baby:



I do not know if this is macro, but it sure looks like science fiction.

[KrishnenduKes]

I borrowed Aryan's lens for a short while one morning to try my hand on Macro and other capabilities of this lens. I loved the sharpness and speed of AF USM on this lens be it for Macro (extremely difficult work) or for other shots, portrait or otherwise. It feels light, as you can see, has a metallic mount and thus is a very robust and sturdy lens. I would surely recommend this lens to anyone looking to buy a medium focal length portrait lens who is also interested in Macro as Aryan has earlier mentionned, this gives you 1:1 Macro.

I was pretty excited about the lens and I spotted a Macro subject; a beautiful yellow spider with some nice spots. He was all nice and cool waiting and posing to be photographed in an airconditionned environment. I told myself, there is nothing to it. I will just go and shoot it and show it to people as my first (and successful) attempts at shooting Macro armed with a good lens for Macro photography.

Fifteen minutes and about 35 shots later, the spider was still there, I was still trying to get even One Single Sharp shot that would make my day! I was drenched in sweat, my back was hurting, my wrists had become sore and I was getting a headache trying to focus that damn spider which looked like it was mocking at me almost screaming "With all that arsenal you cannot take a decent photograph of me!" I gave up.

Macro is something that requires HUGE patience, time, perseverance, a LOT of sweat, and the will to go well beyond the limits of yourself. You go round and round your subject as the situation constantly tests you. You have to be really passionate about getting that shot. And for certain situations, I would almost put it in the category of "extreme photography". Hats off to the people who get good Macro shots, especially of animals.

I did not get to take any good shots. But I wanted to share this experience for those who are looking to know more about the Macro experience.

[Aryan]

^ Yes, I do remember that real tiny yellow spider waiting patiently for us to click his portraits! :D We tried hard. This is the only picture in which the fellow is somewhat visible. Extremely sorry for the grain and the pathetic quality. This was a real quick job, and the picture is straight off the camera. No PP done except for resizing. :p Just wanted to show you all the beauty. :)

A little more light would have been real good. :) The steel 'bar' that you see is actually the rear view mirror holder, on the Bajaj Avenger 200. :D

EXIF:

Canon EOS 400D plus Canon EF 100mm f2.8 USM macro
Aperture: f5.6
Shutter Speed: 1/125 seconds
ISO: 1600
Magnification: 1:1

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/9469/mg7362edit.jpg

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

I borrowed Aryan's lens for a short while one morning to try my hand on Macro and other capabilities of this lens. I loved the sharpness and speed of AF USM on this lens be it for Macro (extremely difficult work) or for other shots, portrait or otherwise. It feels light, as you can see, has a metallic mount and thus is a very robust and sturdy lens. I would surely recommend this lens to anyone looking to buy a medium focal length portrait lens who is also interested in Macro as Aryan has earlier mentionned, this gives you 1:1 Macro.

I was pretty excited about the lens and I spotted a Macro subject; a beautiful yellow spider with some nice spots. He was all nice and cool waiting and posing to be photographed in an airconditionned environment. I told myself, there is nothing to it. I will just go and shoot it and show it to people as my first (and successful) attempts at shooting Macro armed with a good lens for Macro photography.

Fifteen minutes and about 35 shots later, the spider was still there, I was still trying to get even One Single Sharp shot that would make my day! I was drenched in sweat, my back was hurting, my wrists had become sore and I was getting a headache trying to focus that damn spider which looked like it was mocking at me almost screaming "With all that arsenal you cannot take a decent photograph of me!" I gave up.

Macro is something that requires HUGE patience, time, perseverance, a LOT of sweat, and the will to go well beyond the limits of yourself. You go round and round your subject as the situation constantly tests you. You have to be really passionate about getting that shot. And for certain situations, I would almost put it in the category of "extreme photography". Hats off to the people who get good Macro shots, especially of animals.

I did not get to take any good shots. But I wanted to share this experience for those who are looking to know more about the Macro experience.

nice that u stepped into the small world.we really get startled to see every day life in such a different way.

there are two fields where u have to be stealth.bird shooting and macro shooting.once u get the hang of macro ken,then patience takes a secondary step.the first step then becomes to search for subjects that u can potray as macro or even close up.

some like this.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3157/2746485112_f1daa1a36d.jpg

anvancy

[Nakul]

Reading through this thread i see a lot of reference to a 50mm lens. I would love to try my hand at macro but i just have the 18-55 kit lens for a nikon d60. So i did search for a 50mm lens and found this : Nikkor AF 50mm f/1.8D. Would that be the lens in conversion on this thread. ? Or am I looking at a totally different lens. ? The info available on the website says its ideal for scenery or full-length portraits. I think this wont be the macro lens or is it. ?

This price quoted is close to 7k INR which would fit into my pocket now. So was lookin fwd to gettin one of them. :)


Source of info: http://jjmehta.com/products/nikkoraf50.html#Technical_Specification

PS: Really thought the Nikon d60 was the best option for me until I went through this thread. A lot fo reference to Canon SLR's. Dont we have any nikon fans..? :P
But hey still happy with the D60, its not overloading me with lots of controls :D

[rio008]

Its a prime lens and its not a macro lens.
And if you are having nikon D60 the auto-focus of this lens wont work, you need to focus manualy.

Reading through this thread i see a lot of reference to a 50mm lens. I would love to try my hand at macro but i just have the 18-55 kit lens for a nikon d60. So i did search for a 50mm lens and found this : Nikkor AF 50mm f/1.8D. Would that be the lens in conversion on this thread. ? Or am I looking at a totally different lens. ? The info available on the website says its ideal for scenery or full-length portraits. I think this wont be the macro lens or is it. ?

This price quoted is close to 7k INR which would fit into my pocket now. So was lookin fwd to gettin one of them. :)


Source of info: http://jjmehta.com/products/nikkoraf50.html#Technical_Specification

PS: Really thought the Nikon d60 was the best option for me until I went through this thread. A lot fo reference to Canon SLR's. Dont we have any nikon fans..? :P
But hey still happy with the D60, its not overloading me with lots of controls :D

[synn]

Actually, any lens with a fixed focal length is a prime lens.

The problem with the 50 1.8D is that it lacks close focusing. It's practically impossible to get a macro shot out of it. Nikon has an AF 55 f2.8 Micro, which you can look for. Alternatively, there's a 50 f2.8 froom Sigma which is pretty cheap.

Ideally, a longer focal length would allow you to shoot from a distance, but there's nothing wrong with a 50, if you're planning on shooting still life.

As for the brand wars, click my sig to see what a Nikon can do. ;)

[Nakul]

Sigma 50 f2.8.
I guess that that would work for the D60 right .. ?


Just wanted to know.. As a newbie, would goin for the sigma 70-300 apo dg macro make sense.. ?
Right now using my friends sigma 70-300. And i just loved the range the lens provided.

[synn]

The version I have tested didn't have an on-board motor, so it won't AF on a D60. There maybe a different version now. You'll have to check the Sigma website.

That said, macro photographers prefer to do MF if I'm not mistaken.

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

nakul just do a reverse lens technique and try to shoot stuff like coins and ball pen heads etc.

anvancy

[rio008]

i never used sigma 50 prime with a D60, so for that info you must visit their website as anvancy mentioned.

About sigma 70-300 apo dg macro, i used this lens for few days and its a great lens,its zoom lens with macro enabled, the macro works in between 200-300mm only, but if you are looking for macro photography you can talk to our macro specialists.

Sigma 50 f2.8.
I guess that that would work for the D60 right .. ?


Just wanted to know.. As a newbie, would goin for the sigma 70-300 apo dg macro make sense.. ?
Right now using my friends sigma 70-300. And i just loved the range the lens provided.

[synn]

One of the best macro lenses for the Nikon mount is the AF-S Nikkor 105 f2.8 VR. If you can afford it and you're seriously into macros, go for it by all means.

[Bibudesh]

The Nikkor 50mm f/1.4 and f/1.8 are some of the finest lens made by Nikon.
The lens specs with other brands like Sigma may sound same or maybe more than Nikkor (USM for an e.g.) but what matters is the glass quality which actually makes the difference.

Nikon's brand premium is not that high the way its been showcased over the net. U gotta use it to know its capabiility.
I am experiencing the difference.

I am unable to do AF on my 50mm f/1.8 but still I prefer that lens over my Tamron 90mm(with AF motor) for portraits.

Nikkor 105mm cost nearly double than Tamron 90mm, but see the reliability factor,the build quality, the VR feature, the glass quality and the quality of image across all f stops which all are missing in Tamron. This justifies the reason for Tamron to be cheaper.

So for me the price of Nikkor is fully justified coz end of the day its only the image quality what matters for me not the way I take the shot (MF for an e.g.).

Anyday, irrespective of the price, I would vote for Nikkor lens against any third party lenses (Carl Zeiss being an exception).

[synn]

I would vote for Nikkor lens against any third party lensesI most definitely agree; but for someone new into photography and isn't keen on making a long-term investment, discount brand lenses are a viable short term option.

I have tried the 50's from Nikon (1.4), Sigma(2.8) and Zeiss(1.2) side by side at f4 and there were no surprises in the outcome. Zeiss wins, Nikon is a close second and the Sigma trails behind.

[Nakul]

I most definitely agree; but for someone new into photography and isn't keen on making a long-term investment, discount brand lenses are a viable short term option.

I have tried the 50's from Nikon (1.4), Sigma(2.8) and Zeiss(1.2) side by side at f4 and there were no surprises in the outcome. Zeiss wins, Nikon is a close second and the Sigma trails behind.



Valid point Synn. I liked the macro clicks on this thread. But that is because you guys are good at what you are doing :D. It seems to be a fasicanation than a true interest. But yes i would love to explore the area of macro. As per the information i got from the posts and from peers, i think the Sigma 70-300 would the best buy.
Think there is a difference of around 10k between the Sigma and Nikkor lens.
Will be stickin on to my friends sigma as long as he doesnt ask for it :P. But plannin to get an extra battery and a card for the camera this month..


PS: Its actually a fight between a new graphics card or the lens this month. :)

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

i will advise that buy a tele of ur choice and spend 100$ on the raynox and u enter detailed macro photography zone.

once u develop yourself u can go get a prime.but ur raynox will not lay idle since it can be used on virtually anything.

anvancy

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

following is my own personal view.

even if the 100mm is a prime and considering 100*1.6=160mm,i have only 160mm effective reach for my macro subject.the obvious contra-view that you all will put is that what you are getting is a "PRIME".but with glass,reach is also important in macro photography.

the EP-65 is another story but you have to sell things in your house to buy that.(atleast i will have to do that.)

there is a lot of potential when you buy a raynox.the tele with combined APSC factor and then your raynox which retails for 75$ as of now while i am writing is a sweet deal.i will assume that almost 70% here have tele range.so when you combine the raynox with your tele what you are getting is beyond 1:1 at a very very low price.but the optics of raynox are just super sharp.

taking a simple example,300mm*1.5(APSC)=450mm*2.5x of the raynox=1125mm of effective macro range.so at 1125mm you are getting HELL detail and macro which ofcourse goes beyond 1:1.the 250 achieves 1:1 at around 150ish range.and then when you combine both the 150+250 u get a 3.75x range on your tele.around 1687.5mm of range.and then if you want you can then "CROP".that crop will again give you more details.

this post is mainly targetted at those having a tele lens.according to me, putting 75$ and getting raynox and enjoying macro photography makes sense than taking a PRIME and having a limited reach.

i m not marketing raynox but trying to put forward my point.people think that raynox is a waste of money.why many dont like raynox is that they find it difficult.its not a lens but an achromat.you have to sit for hours with it and fiddle with it.many dont have the patience and just give up.i have also seen people taking the 100mm and shooting everything but macro.raynox is actually your another investment.cause it can go even on ur kit lens.the base range of raynox starts at 50mm.so its ideal for budding photographers.
once you are deep into this then go for ring flashes,EP-65s etc.imagine EP-65 with raynox 250..WOW.

like i said earlier my OWN PERSONAL VIEW.you have ur prime..good.enjoy it.certain people are interested in macro photography.i m trying to help those.

peace and cheers.

anvancy

[Aryan]

@Anvancy: One question which I can't help ask is this: Why do you think then, people buy dedicated macro lenses when the same (even MORE) fun/ pictures can be had using a Raynox in a tele lens (or for that matter ANY lens)?

[Bibudesh]

@Anvancy- Your "Personal View" sounds convincing to me atleast.

[nelson_sanjoy]

Anvancy - just a correction the lens you are mentioning is Canon MP-E 65mm f/2.8 1-5x.

Below is what I have observed since I have a Macro lens as well as Raynox , with the caveat that I may be wrong too.
Eventough Raynox with Super Zooms may come handy both practically and economically but raynox will NOT give the same quality as a true macro lens. And when I say macro lens I mean a true macro lens.Raynoxes are pretty good with magnification.

I find an IQ drop when I attach Raynox to even 70-200 (which is considerably sharp) compared to Canon 100mm macro.

Macro primes (be it any manufacturer) are very shap. Macro Lenses have highly corrected optics for close-up work and will deliver excellent flat field characteristics. With raynox, I notice excellent sharpness in the center but poor sharpness in the corners since flat field performance is not that great with normal lenses specially at close distances. And also it needs a lot of light.

This is not to say that Raynox is not good but have limitations but it excels in magnification and is a very good addition for the price.

[Aryan]

@Nelson: Have you got any reviews of the Raynox mounted on the Canon EF 100mm f2.8 Macro lens? I find the 100mm macro lens to be REALLY sharp (both at 1:1 magnification, and at short telephoto). I wonder how the Raynox would 'help' it (if in any way).

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

@aryan: you can answer your own question since you yourself has bought the lens.and even nelson has bought it.

i already stated in my view that i will be bombarded with contra views that the 100mm is a PRIME.

sharpness will depend on your lens.if ur base lens is a standard and not a piece of glass then even raynox will work as standard and not a piece of glass.

@nelson:i am targeting my point towards the "REACH" factor.not towards cheapo factor.cheap factor comes since its available at a low price.

why macro requires light is that the subjects that we shoot are hiding,or sitting somewhere where light does not pentrate.if you see shots with the MP-E many people use ring flash or either other flash to illuminate their subject.taking around 5000 shots with the raynox i dont find LIGHT as a problem.infact F8 is the recommended minimum aperture one has to keep to shoot stuff.and then there is stacking procedure.


raynox itself has said that their lenses are dedicated towards center sharpness.not corner sharpness.since major insects that are shot are in the center.the DOF is thin thats why one finds that suppose the back of the fly is blurred.one thing that one has to do is adjust camera subject distance.
understand this that the raynox is an ACHROMAT and not a dedicated lens.the point i m making is for budding people who want to enter macro photography at a low price.

i do know that PRIMES have edge to edge sharpness,high glass,USM,branding...but they arent available for 75$ are they?you can say that raynox is a common man's tool for macro.the macro lenses are for elite.

anvancy

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

@Nelson: Have you got any reviews of the Raynox mounted on the Canon EF 100mm f2.8 Macro lens? I find the 100mm macro lens to be REALLY sharp (both at 1:1 magnification, and at short telephoto). I wonder how the Raynox would 'help' it (if in any way).

try here.

http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=537980

[Aryan]

@Anvancy: Although, I knew about the Raynox kit way before I got the Canon 100mm macro lens, but I wanted the Canon macro lens because I wanted to get down to true 1:1 (although using Raynox does give more magnification, it seems). I just couldn't have let the 100mm macro lens go!

I believe you don't find light to be a problem with the Raynox because of the telephoto zoom that your camera's lens provides. With something like the 100mm or the MP-E 65mm which has a working distance of JUST 65mm from the subject, light DOES become a MAJOR factor because whatever light is available naturally is obviously guarded because of the magnification factor and the distance of the lens from the subject (100mm and 65mm, respectively, in our example lenses above).

I have actually used the Raynox conversion kit with the 50mm f1.8II lens when I got it from a fellow photographer. I found it pretty useful, and it even let me shoot in the available light! It was really wonderful; but getting back to the 100mm macro was something I started to miss after about a week of usage of the Raynox.

And yes, thanks for that link. Looks like the Raynox, mounted on the 100mm would really YUMMY! :D

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

@Anvancy: Although, I knew about the Raynox kit way before I got the Canon 100mm macro lens, but I wanted the Canon macro lens because I wanted to get down to true 1:1 (although using Raynox does give more magnification, it seems). I just couldn't have let the 100mm macro lens go!

I believe you don't find light to be a problem with the Raynox because of the telephoto zoom that your camera's lens provides. With something like the 100mm or the MP-E 65mm which has a working distance of JUST 65mm from the subject, light DOES become a MAJOR factor because whatever light is available naturally is obviously guarded because of the magnification factor and the distance of the lens from the subject (100mm and 65mm, respectively, in our example lenses above).

I have actually used the Raynox conversion kit with the 50mm f1.8II lens when I got it from a fellow photographer. I found it pretty useful, and it even let me shoot in the available light! It was really wonderful; but getting back to the 100mm macro was something I started to miss after about a week of usage of the Raynox.

And yes, thanks for that link. Looks like the Raynox, mounted on the 100mm would really YUMMY! :D

well let me be clear..i am not saying that 100mms are just way too costly and raynox is best.

i have been receiving mails from here and from other people that where to get raynox in INDIA.many people want to enter this foray but dont want to put huge money on it.when they came to know that this was dirt cheap,considering other options,many want to purchase the kit.
thus as a contribution here,i posted my view which is an sort of an alternative.i am targetting those people who want to buy and enter macro photography but do not want to put moolah.

and aryan at one particular point,ill be frank with you.even one week is not enough to get to know the potential of the raynox.i am still learning its capabilities.and yes it does give beyond 1:1.

nelson mentioned a point about corner sharpness and center sharpness.the thing is that CANON knows that you 100mm users will shoot stuff that is not macro.for example potraits or such.so keeping corner sharpness was essential.when you use raynox,those lens manufacturers know that you are gonna do only MACRO and nothing else.so nelson i hope you understand what i wanna say.

ill be making myself clear again.you want to buy 100mm buy it.but you have to enter macro field and have less moolah...go buy raynox.you will not regret it.

peace.

anvancy

[nelson_sanjoy]

nelson mentioned a point about corner sharpness and center sharpness.the thing is that CANON knows that you 100mm users will shoot stuff that is not macro.for example potraits or such.so keeping corner sharpness was essential.when you use raynox,those lens manufacturers know that you are gonna do only MACRO and nothing else.so nelson i hope you understand what i wanna say.

ill be making myself clear again.you want to buy 100mm buy it.but you have to enter macro field and have less moolah...go buy raynox.you will not regret it.

peace.

anvancy

Sorry but my post was never against yours buddy - It was just my sincere observation...

Some things to clear here - edge to edge sharpness is needed for macro more than for portraits since macro is generally taken at apertures smaller than f8 (though not necessarily). Also not all macro lenses are convenient for portraits like MPE 65, and some 180s. They are supposed to be for Macro first and because some lenses like 100mm have a f/2.8 producing creamish bokeh and are very sharp too so they are used for portraits . AFAIK I have seen differences in SOOC full resolution results from both of them. Saying that I would still say Raynox is sharper than the other diopters available and produces amazing magnification.

I completely agree with your point that Raynox is a good stepping ladder for macros but once you understand the aesthetics and convenience you will buy a dedicated macro no matter what.

And lets not mix REACH and RICH here :) ( pun intended)

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

Aryan..this one is special for you..

http://tchuanye.smugmug.com/Macro-Photography

you can spend the day drooling on this..

and he uses a panasonic FZ-30 and the raynox also..a610 with another reverse lens.

be sure to watch it aryan.

anvancy

[Aryan]

HEAVEN! I am out of breath and words. Tremendous work, and I haven't even looked at all the photographs.

Thanks for that lovely link anvancy! I am REALLY thankful. I LOVE macro. :D

[Xavier]

And here's one of the most famous macrographers on the net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lordv/

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

And here's one of the most famous macrographers on the net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lordv/

brilliant stuff..

and xavier i finished my exams..so you wanted a raynox meet right?:)

anvancy

[Xavier]

This set (http://www.flickr.com/photos/lordv/sets/72157601921624603/) makes me wanna go and buy a Tamron 90mm Macro today! :p

@ Anvancy
Awesome! When can we do it? :D

[hitanshu]

god levle macroman hai woh. thanks for sharing

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

@ Anvancy
Awesome! When can we do it? :D

i have an extra class on sunday from 11 to 1.saturday also classes.so lets see..also it depends on our local rains.

anvancy

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

DIY SOFTBOX for Macrophotography.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4046/4655834818_5fd5d3f258_b.jpg

At times while shooting macro,light is a major issue.adding to that,the subject is moving due to the wind.So to stabilize there are two things.Either we have to stabilize the subject or freeze the subject.Freezing the shot is easier by using the flash.

I dont have the luxury of using off camera flashes.my cam doesnt have a hotshoe.so bigger flashes are omitted.Using the onboard flash kills the shot due to harsh shadows.
So applying the theory,smaller the light harder the shadow,what we can do?

Well we can diffuse it.This is where this baby comes.




http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4047/4656811045_b07928dbd0_b.jpg

For the main box,I chose a glass holder box.These days we get those 6 pieces glasses made in korea and stuff.These are available at most crockery shops/shops selling glassware.check with them.Or else you can either gift yourself or your love some new pieces of juice glasses. :)

The biggest advantage of these boxes are:
1.They are recycled.
2.They are sort of reinforced cardboard.
3.They are light.
4.They are relatively short.

This box perfectly fits the barrel of most prosumers within the 10-15x zoom range.The length of the box runs exactly parellel to the barrel of the lens.So you are giving direction to the light which is parallel to your lens.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4068/4656811795_aaaf873d0a_b.jpg

The box had certain embedded cardboard holders.So when we open the box from right side up,there were 6 exact cubes inside the box for the glasses to rest.The Dividers were total 4.Two on the right side up.Two below.

So first,We have to cut those dividers making the inner section a complete open area box.(which is inside)

Choose any one of the squares of the box at either ends.

Take a cutter.And start cutting the square.But we dont have to cut the square from the edge.Instead cut a square inside the existing square.This way,You are actually using the existing cardboard square as your first support system for your diffuser.

Now we need a reflecting material.Aluminum has around 95% reflecting capacity.So borrowed my mom's kitchen foil for the inner reflection material.You can also apply silver reflective back gift wrapping paper instead of aluminum.

More on the inner setup on next image.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4051/4656812751_d123078758_b.jpg

So I chose Aluminum for my reflective material.

The thing is that,when we will fire the flash through the box,there will be obvious loss of light.The box without any reflective material will be one dark box inside.So when the flash actually fires,its hitting all the walls inside the box minus the reflective material.End result,you will get very less light.

The Solution???

Reflective material.Aluminum suits best since it can be moulded and crapped and crushed to tiny bits.

One thing to note here is that we dont want too much reflective material inside.If we do have heavy reflective material inside,the light will be on the verge of becoming out of control and the diffuser that we will put may not be able to diffuse or handle that spontaneous burst of high light.So we want to put the material but not too much.Thats what I did.And thats why you see my hoch poch work!

Apply the paper one section at a time.Apply sufficiently.When all the sections are sufficiently either glued or taped with your reflective material,we move to the next step....

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4032/4657435642_b852b5da50_b.jpg

Once you have put the foil inside,its time for sealing the box from the outside.I taped my box with gaffer tape.I sealed all the openings of the box from outside.To further seal and strengthen the box a bit I ran tape the square wise.Sort of making a plus sign on the box.

When you finish,the first thing you will notice is that,inspite taping the box,the openings will move.Dont worry.We want to keep some flex to the box.Making the box too rigid may crush the box upon sudden impact or rugged usage.The slight flex will help in holding the box,and while placing it,and in general usability.

Once you have taped the box,you can cut out the extra foil that is coming out of the tape.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4022/4656814187_3fb857e856_b.jpg

Now make the cut square portion side up.

Take some cardboard.Cut out 4 thin long pieces of the cardboard.Stick one piece at a time.Cut out the excess part of the piece to fill our square framing with our reinforced pieces...

Ill recommend here to glue these pieces instead of taping it.Glue makes it stick better and make it harder once it dries off.

These support bars will give a base for the diffuser to rest and will also strengthen the diffuser with the body.

On to the next step...

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4029/4656814927_9858d29a2b_b.jpg

Again choose any one side of the longer rectangle side.

Take a piece of paper.Draw your flash structure on it.Now place that paper on the box.

Take a cutter.Start cutting the shape on the box.

The important step here is to cut delibrately small.The point here is,If we cut more than our flash size,the flash will go through but will not sit tight.So the moment you move your cam,the box will jiggle and fall off.

By cutting small than the size,you gently force your flash through the cutout hole.This way your flash makes way through the hole which is only needed.Not excess.The flash will sort of lock into the box and will not move much.

Some will like to make the hole in the center for gravity purposes,but i made two holes,one in the front and one in the back.

Next Step Please...

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4060/4656815543_2be8e35d4b_b.jpg

I first had butter paper as diffuser in mind.But the problem with butter paper was,you have to apply it layer by layer.So you apply a layer,take a shot,check the diffusion.Less diffusion,add more paper.More diffusion?Less paper.

Instead I chose this.its a bio foam square dish.Here in my place we get nice cherry tomatoes in these.I had kept it way back preserved then not knowing what to do with it until now.This thing we can get in plastic/stationery shops.

I took this for 2 reasons.
1.its depth is perfect for me.Not too much and not too less.
2.This provides a bit of warmth in the flash light unlike usage of butter paper which gives a cool look.

Glue this on the support bars on the open side.Apply a thin layer at first.

Gently press the dish on the support system.If there any gaps,put some more glue and gently press on it.It will stick.Give it 5-10mins to completely dry off.

We are very close now...Next step.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4046/4657438402_541beff026_b.jpg

So after doing all the steps,our product looks like this.Lets check from another angle.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4062/4656816831_3f8530ce8e_b.jpg

After constructing,the final product looks like this.

Lets see our first test.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4001/4657439508_e02090f945_b.jpg

Firstly check how FUJIFILM is softened.

This is at +/-0 flash setting.You can clearly see the flash is getting powered by those reflectors inside but is getting properly diffused while coming out.

Next Subject please...

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4039/4657440220_9a4ae90eee_b.jpg

Took my raynox 250.attached it.And the box.Subject?the scissor.

The light is evenly spread.No harsh highlights or shadows.Simple evenly spread light.Interesting.

Next subject please...

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4054/4656818873_14400155a8_b.jpg

Next I aimed at my pillow cover and fired a shot.in this image also the threads are evenly lit.

Decoration Time...Next please.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4040/4657441742_eac31eaaf1_b.jpg

We will make our box a little more presentable.So i first wrapped it with plain white 2 sheets of A4 paper.Made holes in the right spots.So now our box looks more tidy.

More Decoration...next.


http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4051/4657442360_c12ded5945_b.jpg

I wanted to really decorate my box.And since macro was my intention,I ventured out in the market searching for some insect stickers.

It turned out that there is few demand for insect stickers.More is on ben10 and such.So came home with some nice butterflies stickers.

Decorated with them.

Finally....Next...

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4045/4656820581_bf5e16eb65_b.jpg

I went one step further.I used a plastic sheet.Wrapped the box with it.Made it somewhat water resistant. :)

Hope you all like it.

More Test Images are gonna follow.So do keep a check here.

Thanks

Suggestions and Tips Welcome.

Anvancy

[KrishnenduKes]

The woodwork in your room is pretty impressive I must say. Could you please give me the reference of your carpenter?

And yes, thanks for the step by step description of the diffuser. It will take me some time to understand the process. What has me baffled is this... you have a pop-up flash right? The pop-up flash fits in there?

Second question... what about P&S that do not have a pop-up flash?

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

The woodwork in your room is pretty impressive I must say. Could you please give me the reference of your carpenter?

And yes, thanks for the step by step description of the diffuser. It will take me some time to understand the process. What has me baffled is this... you have a pop-up flash right? The pop-up flash fits in there?

Second question... what about P&S that do not have a pop-up flash?

The Woodwork contractor apparently quit the job.Dont know why.:p

1.Yes I have a pop up flash.The flash fits directly in those two rectangle holes.Cut to suit my pop up flash shape.

2.Many dont use 3x pocket cams for macro.;)

Anvancy

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1277/4662680414_ee6ce53e77_b.jpg

I had bouquets in another room.So thought of trying the softbox on the flowers.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4059/4662679914_d7245d85ab_b.jpg

First the yellow Zerbera.
The flower is well lit.The reflections of the box are there in the drops.Hardly any shadows there.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4027/4662057553_d7c9b4d8bd_b.jpg

Next,the Pink Zerbera.
Here also I specially like how the curls have come out.Distinct pattern,But sort of a washout towards the edge of the frame.Again I think the flower is well lit.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4036/4662679094_6bb0b12a6b_b.jpg

The green dressings also were evenly lit according to me.

I went to my terrace-garden in anticipation of some insects might be there.But due to the summer heat,There were actually none.After some wait,this arrived.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4029/4662056815_1d4dc745c2_b.jpg

If you see its abdomen,its shiny and the reflection is clearly seen.To me the box is working pretty good.

So there you have it.Test Images Part 2.

Do tell me your views/comments etc.

Thanks for watching.

Anvancy

[Aryan]

To heck with the actual 'tutorial' there; I LOVED the macros! :)

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

To heck with the actual 'tutorial' there; I LOVED the macros! :)

Always trying to improvise myself.:)

More are there.

Anvancy

[KrishnenduKes]

Incredible! :)

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

Incredible! :)

I am yet very far from incredible shots.These are just decent.

Anvancy

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

Now if you thinking that I take good macro shots,then see what this guy does.This is real macro photography.Mine is like 0.1% of it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqRn3at0H60

Anvancy

[Viny]

Thanks for sharing the video, its impressive :)

Also want to update about Raynox baba :)
Yups ordered DCR 250 and DCR 150 from B&H expecting it to reach within 15 days or so :)
CM2000 Kit was not availalbe.

[CrAzY PiCs]

Thanks for sharing the video, its impressive :)

Also want to update about Raynox baba :)
Yups ordered DCR 250 and DCR 150 from B&H expecting it to reach within 15 days or so :)
CM2000 Kit was not availalbe.
What was the amount, and mode of payment?

Really looking forward to owning a Raynox someday!

[Viny]

DCR 250 - $50.50
DCR 150 - $43
Free shipping in USA.
Another 13$ for shipping via USPS to be done by friend.
They accept payment via paypal and credit card.

Also ordered Hoya CPl, ND and UV Filter Kit, that will also reach along with :)
Probably will also order a macro studio kit too or else would deploy avancy method.

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

whats a macro studio kit?

Are you aiming to do macrophotography the studio way?

Or you are saying that you want to order macro rails and bellows etc?

If your friend is bringing with him,then no problem.

But if your friend is sending thru USPS tell him to pay extra and make your shipment as a proper registered one with tracking number.

I didnt do the same,and could not track the shipment through normal post.

Anvancy

[Viny]

A macro studio kit consists of

1. A Studio box with various backgrouds
2. 2-4 spot lights

I am also thinking about a ring flash cum diffuser and a Macro Rail


By they way could you tell me which cameras of current generation uses bellows? If i am not mistaken bellows are those long black flexible boxes that where used for extension of lenses etc.

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

A macro studio kit consists of

1. A Studio box with various backgrouds
2. 2-4 spot lights

I am also thinking about a ring flash cum diffuser and a Macro Rail


By they way could you tell me which cameras of current generation uses bellows? If i am not mistaken bellows are those long black flexible boxes that where used for extension of lenses etc.

Oh.A light tent.

Ring Flash as in a Proper Ring flash or that RAY one which attaches to main flash and gives a ringlight?

Bellows are used for lenses.Each and every DSLR is capable of a bellow.Bellow is next to an extender which extends your lens range for further macro shooting.But do get in mind that the nearer you go to your subject the less light it becomes.

For studio macrophotography you will have to find a way of preserving your species before you can take shots of it.

Anvancy

[Viny]

I am going for a proper ring flash. I have not seen "Ray" that attaches to main flash. Could you share some pics?

Also i have not seen much of bellows used in current scenario, may be i a newbie to it. Not sure if it could be of any use to me currently with my given equipments. Any photos showing use of bellows for macro photography would be much appreciated, it would be new learning for me.

Nopes i am not planning to shot insects or any animal species under the macro mode in side the macro studio...i am not good in generating interests in insects. They generally run away either its me or its my deo which keeps them away :p


I would also like to know about diffusers and using slave flash with diffuser. Can you post macro shots with and without diffuser. I have seen macro photographers using diffuser a lot of time. On the other end they say macro shots need good lighting conditions. Is there to much of reflections? Does CPL helps here?

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

I am going for a proper ring flash. I have not seen "Ray" that attaches to main flash. Could you share some pics?

Also i have not seen much of bellows used in current scenario, may be i a newbie to it. Not sure if it could be of any use to me currently with my given equipments. Any photos showing use of bellows for macro photography would be much appreciated, it would be new learning for me.

Nopes i am not planning to shot insects or any animal species under the macro mode in side the macro studio...i am not good in generating interests in insects. They generally run away either its me or its my deo which keeps them away :p


I would also like to know about diffusers and using slave flash with diffuser. Can you post macro shots with and without diffuser. I have seen macro photographers using diffuser a lot of time. On the other end they say macro shots need good lighting conditions. Is there to much of reflections? Does CPL helps here?

A bellow is like the one in the photo below.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/johnhallmen/4320502042/in/set-72157604592459772/

If you have already purchased raynox then dont immediately jump to bellows.First try out macro photography through raynox which will give you a nice idea of magnification.

U mean off camera lighting or On camera flash gun and diffusing it Or using your incamera flash for photography?
Off camera needs placement,which brings the light stand which brings in the difficulty in placing it since it will disturb everything besides you.

Diffusion is compulsory since your ordinary light is going to make everything turn white.

In macro you want light.CPLs will work where there is a LOT of reflection.If there is no reflection then you are again killing light to some extent.The diffused light will further go down again rendering you to go for more light which ultimately kills the whole equation.

Anvancy

[Viny]

Walla...what a link... subhan allaa...kameez ka bacha..dil kush kar diya..mein tumko do tel ka kowa deti :D


I was trying to understand that if we dont use diffuser then in that case would cpl will help?
I dont say that CPL will be a prefect replacement, but just in case.

Yups i am not going for bellows as of now, i first need to play good with raynox and I surely dont have much of paitences :p

I will most probably intially use some jugad kind of diffuser for my FZ35. say a white TT ball split apart and used up as cap on my inbuilt flash :p

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

Walla...what a link... subhan allaa...kameez ka bacha..dil kush kar diya..mein tumko do tel ka kowa deti :D


I was trying to understand that if we dont use diffuser then in that case would cpl will help?
I dont say that CPL will be a prefect replacement, but just in case.

Yups i am not going for bellows as of now, i first need to play good with raynox and I surely dont have much of paitence :p

I will most probably intially use some jugad kind of diffuser for my FZ35. say a white TT ball split apart and used up as cap on my inbuilt flash :p

The TT ball split is mainly useful for microscope photography technique.
Understand this.The bigger the diffusion the more soft the light.Smaller will mean hard light.
I am now going to assume that you will be using your onboard FZ35 flash for macro shots.Just go a few posts above and you will see my diffuser setup.You can easily create one of those or in the lines of those for a nice simple diffuser.

Else you can do whats done here.

http://www.diyphotography.net/a4-sheet-fold-me-lumiquest

Happy DIYing.

The main purpose of a CPL is to cut the reflections.Our aim in macro photography is not cutting the reflections but making light available and having the light soft and subtle.Thats why CPL sits way down in the list.

Anvancy

[Vicky]

Ah! Once again... now the duel is gonna warm up! :)

Rained in the morning...:(



Bracket as in??

At least I can share my Macro Setup with the DIY flash bracket and DIY diffuser...

50D with Grip + Sigma 150mm Macro + 430EX mounted on a DIY flash Bracket which is attached to the inverted Tripod Ring on the 150mm. 430EX connected to the Body via the Canon OC-E3 Off Shoe ETTL Cord. The diffuser is a light sphere copy Dome with chrome stickers on the inside and diffused with layers of paper napkin...

http://www.thephotographer.in/darkroom/attachment.php?attachmentid=1707&stc=1&d=1283670150

http://www.thephotographer.in/darkroom/attachment.php?attachmentid=1708&stc=1&d=1283670150

http://www.thephotographer.in/darkroom/attachment.php?attachmentid=1709&stc=1&d=1283670150

http://www.thephotographer.in/darkroom/attachment.php?attachmentid=1710&stc=1&d=1283670150

http://www.thephotographer.in/darkroom/attachment.php?attachmentid=1711&stc=1&d=1283670150

[KrishnenduKes]

Copied Vicky's useful post on this thread

Your bracket looks deadly! Where did you get it done? From the local welder's shop? :D :D

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

Can you post some simple indoor test shots??like on a small toy etc?

Also Ill suggest you make a rectangular enclosure and bypass the circular one.Rectangular softboxes provide true soft light with minimum light spill and even light spread.Circulars simply cant match.

The distance of the flash from the lens..is it adjustable?I mean can the flash come near the lens?For me,the length is exceeding,which "may" hamper during actual shooting.I had tried before pulling out my diffuser like your setup.But when insects are sandwiched between leaves,your lens is aiming at the insect,But the diffuser is aiming at the upper leaf.At this juncture a diffuser "resting" on the lens works pretty well.

Great setup indeed.But thought to suggest a few things for improvement.

Anvancy

[Vicky]

Ok guys.. speant about 2hrs today making myself a DIY diffuser for the reverse 28mm setup.

Made this with an empty pringles can and tin foil container.

This is how the setup looks like with the Reverse mounted 28mm f/2.8 and the 430ex with DIY diffuser.

http://www.thephotographer.in/darkroom/attachment.php?attachmentid=1764&stc=1&d=1284290844

Keep in mind that the focus plane with this reverse lens setup is located about 5cm from the front of the lens..

Here's a shot of the diffuser with the flash going.. evenly distributed light..
http://www.thephotographer.in/darkroom/attachment.php?attachmentid=1765&stc=1&d=1284290844

Here's a test shot with the bare flash and inbuilt diffuser plate of the 430ex..
http://www.thephotographer.in/darkroom/attachment.php?attachmentid=1766&stc=1&d=1284290844

And the same shot with the diffuser..
http://www.thephotographer.in/darkroom/attachment.php?attachmentid=1767&stc=1&d=1284290844

You can see that the lighting is visibly softer with better detail in the shadows and less harshness in the highlights... specially notice how much softer the shadows are..

Looking forward to testing this setup on some real bugs!



..

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

So you finally went for a rectangular diffusion.Great.

5cm seems challenging.the mag of the 28 "may" be difficult.You can also try with the tested 50mm. 50mm is around 25 diopter.

Anvancy

[Vicky]

So you finally went for a rectangular diffusion.Great.

5cm seems challenging.the mag of the 28 "may" be difficult.You can also try with the tested 50mm. 50mm is around 25 diopter.

Anvancy

Yes. I had to try your suggestion!:)

What do you think about the spread of light and quality of diffusion?

Yes, 5cm is very challenging with live insects.... but it gives me near 2:1 life size magnification without cropping:)

For me, there in no point in trying with a reversed 50mm coz a reversed 50mm gives a life size magnification of about 1:1, which I can get anyway with my Sigma 150mm macro with full metering, Auto focus and aperture control. Also the sigma gives me about 20cm working distance... which is very good for shy insects:)

The reverse 28mm setup is for the times when I need more magnification than what the Sigma can provide :)

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

Yes. I had to try your suggestion!:)

What do you think about the spread of light and quality of diffusion?

Yes, 5cm is very challenging with live insects.... but it gives me near 2:1 life size magnification without cropping:)

For me, there in no point in trying with a reversed 50mm coz a reversed 50mm gives a life size magnification of about 1:1, which I can get anyway with my Sigma 150mm macro with full metering, Auto focus and aperture control. Also the sigma gives me about 20cm working distance... which is very good for shy insects:)

The reverse 28mm setup is for the times when I need more magnification than what the Sigma can provide :)

Will wait for the results.

Anvancy

[KrishnenduKes]

Why can't I see anything!!!!

[Vicky]

Why can't I see anything!!!!


Because I originally made this post in the "post your best Macro Shots" thread and uploaded the attachments in that post... and then simply copied the same post in this thread too like you had done the last time.

Then, someone deleted my original post from the "post your best macro shots" thread and since the attachments were originally uploaded on that post, they also got deleted with the post and hence the links to them are no longer active in this thread either...

[KrishnenduKes]

Because I originally made this post in the "post your best Macro Shots" thread and uploaded the attachments in that post... and then simply copied the same post in this thread too like you had done the last time.

Then, someone deleted my original post from the "post your best macro shots" thread and since the attachments were originally uploaded on that post, they also got deleted with the post and hence the links to them are no longer active in this thread either...

ROTFL: too funny!

The only people who could have deleted the original post is Me, Anvancy, Synn and the person who has posted! I do not remember physically deleting any post!!! :) :) It is a pity, but I am still laughing. Could you please edit the post and put back the attachments?

[Vicky]

ROTFL: too funny!

The only people who could have deleted the original post is Me, Anvancy, Synn and the person who has posted! I do not remember physically deleting any post!!! :) :)

LOL! I did not delete anything either:)

Anyways, uploaded the photos again... are they working now?

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

I deleted it from the duel citing this as some serious stuff.

It seems that I forgot to shift the attachments to this thread.

Apologies.

Anvancy

[KrishnenduKes]

Thanks for the effort Vicky! :)

I deleted it from the duel citing this as some serious stuff.

It seems that I forgot to shift the attachments to this thread.

Apologies.

Anvancy

No issues Anvancy. I am still laughing at Vicky's explanation of how his photos disappeared! :D :D

[amvj]

Ok Lot of Macro related doubts I have, looking for some seniors to clear the mist.

1. Is there any Nikon's equivalent to the Canon's MP-E 65mm 1-5x Macro Lens ?
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/reviews/canon-mp-e-65mm-1-5x-macro-lens-review.aspx

2. I have checked some dpreview forums, a guy used this Canon lens to his Nikon camera with some modifications. They say, in the olden days Nikon is having some and now they don't have. :confused: I mean Nikon is not having the 5x macro capability lens.

3. The query is, if a Nikon user wants to get a similar [or more] 5X macro capability, only Raynox is the option ? Stock Nikon macro [Micro] lenses don't have such 5x magnification ?

4. What is the difference between 150, 250, MSN 202 and MSN 505 [Correct me if I am wrong]

5. whats is the difference between these Raynox lenses and the famed Canon MP-E 65mm ? Which is better - pros and cons?

6. Why Raynox lenses work better with P&S than with DSLR ?
Today we have DSLRs with Live view.
Less DOF / Slow live view or something like that ?

7. Raynox lens work better with long zoom camera ?

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

Ok Lot of Macro related doubts I have, looking for some seniors to clear the mist.

1. Is there any Nikon's equivalent to the Canon's MP-E 65mm 1-5x Macro Lens ?
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/reviews/canon-mp-e-65mm-1-5x-macro-lens-review.aspxNo.For a field magnification lens,Nikon is stuck till the 105mm.Canon has the MP E 65mm.

2. I have checked some dpreview forums, a guy used this Canon lens to his Nikon camera with some modifications. They say, in the olden days Nikon is having some and now they don't have. :confused: I mean Nikon is not having the 5x macro capability lens.You get those adapters through which you can use other party lenses.
Professionals use objectives(used for microscopes) of either nikon or carl zeiss or other objective manufacturers.These are used with the help of bellows.Others use reverse lenses.primarily the 50mm.Also the 28,35 are used.

3. The query is, if a Nikon user wants to get a similar [or more] 5X macro capability, only Raynox is the option ? Stock Nikon macro [Micro] lenses don't have such 5x magnification ?Ill say you have some options.Either use the raynox along with your Nikkor 105mm.
Reverse your 50mm or other prime for usage as a macro lens.
Understand that macro lenses (both Canon and Nikon)provide a magnification of 1:1.ie Lifesize.the actual magic starts beyond 1:1.So as asked in the first question,Nikon has no offer compared to the MP E 65.But reverse gives you more magnification.

4. What is the difference between 150, 250, MSN 202 and MSN 505 (Correct me if I am wrong)Its the magnification.
150=1.5x
250=2.5x
150+250=3.75x
150+150=3x
250+250=5x
MSN 202=a rough 8x
MSN 505=beyond 10x.

Out of these,the MSN are the hardest to handle.505 is just hell.for 202 the working distance are in cms.usually 7to 10cms.but again it depends on the subject.That is why I usually do not recommend at first the MSN for a new buyer.I have seen and still see lot of raynox users post average photos and are in a hurry for stacking ie more magnification.I always advise first master your shots by using a single lens.Do not always think that more magnification will give you good shots.Composition plays a heavy role.

Continuing the myth,more magnification=awesome photos,I advise buy the kit.both 150 and 250.150 comes in use of flowers where heavy magnification is not needed.You want to portray a beyond life photo but it should not go too deep.Thats where the 150 helps.

5. whats is the difference between these Raynox lenses and the famed Canon MP-E 65mm ? Which is better - pros and cons?Apples and Oranges.
one is an achromat.The other is a dedicated lens.

Pros of the MP E.
A full blown 1x-5x 2.8 aperture manual lens.
Corner to Corner Sharpness.
Optics superior in front of achromat.

Pros of the Raynox.
Lightweight.
Pocket-Friendly.
That way easy to learn.
It is also an investment.
works with prosumers also.
Its also a lens.(has elements)so optically better than those el cheapo filters.

Pros of say a 50mm
Again Corner to Corner Sharpness.
Lightweight.
Prime factor.
Optics.

The con of a reverse 50 will be no metering.So you have to do the calculations.You get electronic extension tubes which do the metering.But somewhat they are costly.

Ill not say the price of the MP E will be a con.When you look how and whats it made for,the 41k feels total worth.


6. Why Raynox lenses work better with P&S than with DSLR ?
Today we have DSLRs with Live view.Less DOF / Slow live view or something like that ?Its the sensor.P&S have smaller sensors than DSLRs.So you get better magnification due to the small size.The DOF is also small.that's why you can focus better.DSLRs have a bigger sensor so in theory a little less magnification is achieved.But that is overpowered by the sheer image quality you get.

Many forget that you have to learn to use raynox on a DSLR.understand its working distance relationship,functioning,limitations and most of all,your patience.

You will see a lot of pros take the MP E for field use.they dont have the moolah problem.41k to them is possible.41k to a person like me is heaven and hell.


7. Raynox lens work better with long zoom camera ?Yes.it depends on your zoom lens for the magnification.The more the merrier.But the more means also that much difficult.the ideal working range of the raynox is 50-300mm.so at 300mm the raynox 250 is going to provide you a 2.75x magnified image.not a 2.5x.2.5x is achieved in the 200mm range only.

Since raynox depends on your lens,your lens in the first place should be a good one.If you use raynox on a sigma lens,the results will be different than say from a canon tele or a nikon tele.You lens optics are magnified by the usage of raynox.Many to save money use raynox and sigma and then come running saying the photos dont come good.we all have seen the sigma optics of the 70-300.So you get my point.


So summing up altogether,

If a strict budget then raynox.

If you want to seriously go into macro photography either as hobby or otherwise,I will suggest go dedicated and buy the MP E 65mm.Ill not put money on a 100mm if its just giving me a 1:1 mag and sits somewhere near the 65mm price point.

If your attitude is Budget=whats that? one then you can go for a full blown Nikkor objectives,bellows,camera rails and lighting.

Any more doubts?

Anvancy

[KrishnenduKes]

Important Technical Discussion Copied to Thread

[Aryan]

@Anvancy: Very informative post, indeed. I myself was very much confused at some point of time between the MP-E 65mm and the EF 100mm f2.8 USM Macro lens. Ultimately, I decided to go for the Canon EF 100mm f2.8 USM Macro lens as that would also act as a medium telephoto lens (160mm on my APS-C camera body) apart from shooting some truly great macro photographs (true macros @ 1:1 magnification), whereas all the MP-E would do is shoot dedicated macro photographs from 1x to 5x, which, for me was a negative point, really, provided my bread and butter does not come from macro photography!

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

@Anvancy: Very informative post, indeed. I myself was very much confused at some point of time between the MP-E 65mm and the EF 100mm f2.8 USM Macro lens. Ultimately, I decided to go for the Canon EF 100mm f2.8 USM Macro lens as that would also act as a medium telephoto lens (160mm on my APS-C camera body) apart from shooting some truly great macro photographs (true macros @ 1:1 magnification), whereas all the MP-E would do is shoot dedicated macro photographs from 1x to 5x, which, for me was a negative point, really, provided my bread and butter does not come from macro photography!

Those who are abroad do macro-photography for either hobby or specimen recording.Thats why the MP E is a niche lens.many will go for the 100mm since it provides a dual purpose.But then my view if a person wants to put himself in macro photography,he should buy the MP E if he is in canon.

Anvancy

[Aryan]

Those who are abroad do macro-photography for either hobby or specimen recording.Thats why the MP E is a niche lens.many will go for the 100mm since it provides a dual purpose.But then my view if a person wants to put himself in macro photography,he should buy the MP E if he is in canon.

Anvancy
Provided he can earn back the 65k that he spends on the MP-E! :D

[anvancy-(macro analyst)]

Provided he can earn back the 65k that he spends on the MP-E! :D

common.if its a hobby you dont look at monetary gains.and correction aryan.41k.:p.times change.though MP E+the twin light setup is a massive 72k coffin for your wallet.;)

Anvancy

[anirban]

Found this on the National Geographic site:

http://video.nationalgeographic.com/video/player/specials/photography-specials/photo-tips/macro-photo-tips.html